Austin

Andrew Collins
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Austin

The perfect three-day weekend in this upbeat, welcoming metropolis

Fast-growing Austin has been one of America’s most talked about cities over the past decade, having not only increased its population by nearly 50 percent but also solidified its reputation as an ultra-cool place to live and visit. The fact that Austin is oppressively hot for a few months each summer is about its only major negative. As autumn approaches, however, Austin cools off again – and this means the city’s myriad cafes, lounges, music clubs, and gay hangouts sizzle with activity.

If you’ve been to this left-leaning – especially by Texas standards – city before, say five or more years ago, you may have trouble recognizing it. The downtown landscape has been transformed by office and hotel towers, and a fantastic airport makes traveling here a breeze. Here’s a recipe for enjoying the perfect three-day weekend in this upbeat, welcoming metropolis.

Consider staying in the funky downtown Warehouse District, with its bounty of both gay and gay-friendly bars as well as hip restaurants and offbeat boutiques. Worthy recommendations include the most glamorous hotel in town, the Intercontinental Stephen F. Austin, an opulent 16-story beauty with marble baths, 1920s-era furnishings, and twice-daily maid service. Perfectly appealing yet less pricey downtown alternatives include the Radisson Town Lake, whose rooms face the scenic Colorado River (known as Town Lake in this part of the city), and the Hampton Inn and Suites, an attractive, reasonably priced mid-rise opened a few years ago.

Across the river, within walking distance of downtown, you’ll find another excellent lodging base, the retro-trendy South Congress district, home to the cleverly restored Austin Motel. Many rooms at this quirky slice of ’50s-style Americana have tile floors, kitchenettes, Jacuzzi tubs, and kidney-shaped patios. There’s an on-site Mexican restaurant, El Sol y La Luna, that turns out fiery, kick-ass huevos rancheros and carne asada. A few blocks away, the swankier Hotel San Jose is another old motor court that’s been given a postmodern, minimalist makeover. The spacious courtyard suites are downright posh (and pricey), but a simpler though still snazzy room with a shared bath runs for just over $100 nightly. Entertain guests in the hotel’s scene-y lounge-cum-coffeehouse.

On Friday, your first night in town, decompress after your flight or car ride with a relaxing, informal meal at one of the city’s well-regarded purveyors of Tex-Mex, such as Guero’s or Manuel’s. A former feed store that’s now a fabulous taqueria, Guero’s serves some of the best Mexican fare in central Texas – from standard but artfully seasoned tamales to more innovative creations like marinated grilled pork on a corn tortilla with onions, cilantro, and fresh pineapple. Fancier than most of the Mexican restaurants in town, Manuel’s is a sleek, deco-inspired space in the Warehouse District with a sassy little bar in back. Try some of the more innovative creations, like corn-battered colossal shrimp with a poblano-chile cream, or pork enchiladas in a velvety mole sauce.

After your meal, it’s time to check out at least a couple of Austin’s inviting gay bars – it’s a topsy-turvy scene in these parts, with one or two bars coming and going seemingly every year. But you can consistently count on there being roughly a half dozen gay bars downtown, mostly concentrated in the Warehouse District. Worthwhile options on Fridays include the relatively new Rain on 4th, which opened in the Warehouse District in 2006, and has a lovely deck out back, a cozy billiards bar up front, and a mid-size dance bar in the middle; and Charlie’s, the city’s oldest gay bar, which lies in the shadows of the state capitol building. Go-go boys perform inside, and there’s a spacious deck in back. If you’re looking to keep it mellow your first night, have an after-dinner cocktail, fruit smoothie, or espresso drink at the stylish Halcyon Coffeehouse and Lounge, a hipster-infested, gay-friendly hangout across the street from Rain on 4th.

Rise and shine on Saturday morning with breakfast at one of Austin’s more eccentric nosh pits, Magnolia Cafe, which has branches along South Congress Avenue and also just west of downtown on Lake Austin Boulevard. The delicious, filling breakfast specialties range from the “Solar Landscape” (seasoned grilled potatoes, red onions, and ham topped with queso and chipotle sauce) to hefty gingerbread pancakes bursting with blueberries.

Very close to the South Congress neighborhood, you can take to the outdoors and work off some calories with a stroll through beautiful 350-acre Zilker Park, a fine spot to tan your hide on sunny days. The park’s spring-fed Barton Springs Pool, a popular and enormous swimming hole, remains an invigorating 68 degrees year-round, so bring along a swimsuit if the weather’s nice.

Austin’s best outdoor attraction, however, is Hippie Hollow Park, which hugs the shores of stunning Lake Travis, about a 30-minute drive west of town. This is the region’s only official clothing-optional sunbathing spot. The gay section, which draws substantial crowds on just about any day with temperatures above 65 degrees, lies at the very end of the pathway that leads from the parking lot. On weekend afternoons you’ll often see pleasure boats packed with cute guys docked just offshore. Break for refreshments with a meal at the Oasis, a massive outdoor compound set high on a bluff overlooking the lake and Hippie Hollow – it’s a short drive from the park. The mediocre Mexican food at Oasis won’t win any culinary awards, but the views and the potent margaritas make this a winner.

On your way back into town, treat yourself to some truly heavenly ice cream at Amy’s, a shrine to fattening dairy treats. Mexican vanilla, pumpkin cheesecake, and honeyed brandy are a few popular flavors at this local chain with outposts in several handy locations, including South Congress Avenue and 6th Street downtown. If you still have a little time left, stroll among the cool antiques, home-furnishings, and second-hand clothing shops along South Congress Avenue and also in the Warehouse District.

Saturday-night dinner options are many. Stick with the Warehouse District for the best people-watching, plus proximity to gay nightlife. Excellent dining bets include Kenichi, a mod, happening place where pretty young things hobnob over superbly rendered Japanese cuisine. At nearby Malaga, you can savor plate after plate of terrific tapas, such as braised beef short ribs in Riojo wine. It’s a dramatic space with tall brick walls and marble tables, and there’s Latin music most nights.

Saturday is Austin’s big night for gay revelry. Rain on 4th and Charlie’s remain popular options, but this is also the best night to check out Rain’s neighbor, Oilcan Harry’s, which has been a fixture in the city for years. This always-packed stand-and-model bar attracts a hot collegiate crowd. There are a couple of bar areas, a patio in back, and a good (loud) sound system serving the tiny but pulsing dance floor. Austin’s many queer country-western fans head to the nearby Rainbow Cattle Co., where they two-step and line-dance below a sea of wagon wheels and Wild West artifacts. If you’re into leather, head to the Chain Drive, which cultivates a bearish and rugged ambience.

The city also has dozens of clubs and lounges hosting bands and singers of just about every ilk, making Austin one of the nation’s top cities for live music. Just stroll through the Warehouse District, especially along East 6th Street, and listen for the sounds of music to your liking. In Austin, nobody cares much about looks, labels, and agendas – you’ll be made to feel welcome most anywhere.

Sunday morning offers a fresh opportunity to sample one of Austin’s great brunch or lunch spots – depending on how late you sleep in. A favorite of the gay community, Katz Deli is renowned for its half-pound sandwiches – the grilled three-cheese with tomatoes is especially good. Another enjoyable option is the South Congress Cafe, a handsome space known for such toothsome brunch treats as duck-and-oyster gumbo, and a luscious carrot cake French toast.

Spend your final afternoon in town exploring the leafy 357-acre campus of the University of Texas, whose attractions include the Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential Library and Museum and the Texas Memorial Museum, which has exhibits on state history and local flora and fauna. UT’s Blanton Museum of Art is well-regarded for its collections of Renaissance paintings as well as modern Latin American art. Guadalupe Street, known along its border with UT as “the Drag,” is a haven of alternative culture as well as _the_ place to shop for locally made arts and crafts, Longhorn memorabilia, and other offbeat goods.

On your final night in Austin, you might go all out with a high-ticket dinner at one of the city’s most sophisticated restaurants, such as dark and sexy Jeffrey’s, which has the polish of a big-city supper club and a clientele that ranges from celebs to politicos. The lamb T-bone with spinach-parmesan souffle and onion-mint confit is a typically sublime dish. Don’t miss the white-chocolate parfait with brandied cherries and pistachios for dessert – a memorable ending to a great Austin weekend.

Related: Gay Houston – A Stylish Getaway

Weekend in Baltimore’s Fells Point

Andrew Collins
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Weekend in Baltimore’s Fells Point

This friendly metropolis has several hip, gay-friendly neighborhoods

Baltimore’s transformation from a rough, workaday city into a dynamic vacation destination has revolved largely around the renaissance of the city’s Inner Harbor, where museums and shops have replaced wharf-side factories and boatyards. But this friendly metropolis has several hip, gay-friendly neighborhoods that beg exploring, the most charming of which is Fells Point, one of America’s best-preserved colonial waterfront neighborhoods. If you’re looking for a low-keyed yet romantic weekend getaway, Fells Point has all the right ingredients.

Perfectly maintained Federal town houses, which date to an era when 16 shipbuilders bustled nearby, line the neighborhood’s cobbled thoroughfares. Fells Point has long been among the city’s most diverse enclaves, home to a cross section of older Italian and Eastern European immigrants (Little Italy is just a few blocks north), artsy slackers and GenXers, and well-to-do professionals – lesbians and gays are pronounced part of the mix, even though Baltimore’s most gay-identified neighborhood is Mt. Vernon, a couple of miles away.

Related: Gay Prague – Spring in Prague Is Such an Experience

If you want to fully immerse yourself in Fells Point, consider staying at one of the neighborhood’s highly gay-friendly accommodations. There’s the historic Admiral Fell Inn, which was once a YMCA for the neighborhood’s transient sailors (if only those walls could talk). Today this stately inn serves a more refined clientele and contains elegant rooms with four-poster beds and Federal-period furnishings; deluxe two-story suites have sleeping lofts, fireplaces, and whirlpool tubs.

There are also a few larger and more modern properties on the east side of the Inner Harbor area that are a short if uninteresting stroll from Fells Point. These are great if you prefer being closer to the Inner Harbor attractions. A super-hip boutique hotel right on the eastern end of the harbor, the elegant Harbor Inn Pier 5 has three excellent restaurants, including a branch of the exceptional seafood chain McCormick and Schmick’s.

The rooms have decadent bathrooms, plush beds with high-quality linens, and urbane, postmodern furnishings in bold colors. A bit closer to Fells Point, the high-end Baltimore Marriott Waterfront Hotel is a gracious 32-story hotel with a sumptuous lobby; rooms have contemporary yet classic oak furniture, luxurious duvets, and marble baths – those on the upper floors have fantastic views either of the Inner Harbor and city skyline or Fells Point. You can save a few bucks staying at the Courtyard Marriott Downtown/Inner Harbor, which is just around the corner. Rooms here have little in the way of a view, but this is the closest of the eastern Inner Harbor hotels to Fells Point.

Assuming you arrive in town late in the afternoon, perhaps the first thing you’ll do after checking into your hotel is grab a bite to eat. If it’s tasty sustenance in a casual setting you’re after, try John Steven’s tavern, which offers consistently excellent comfort fare plus more elaborate dishes like seafood cassoulet and filet mignon. A showier scene awaits you at Atlantic, a dramatic restaurant with soaring ceilings that occupies part of an old factory in Canton, the rapidly gentrifying neighborhood just east of Fells Point. Atlantic serves stellar contemporary seafood like a lobster pan-roast with polenta and summer vegetables in a tomato broth. The first Friday of every month, the restaurant hosts an informal DJ’d party that draws an eclectic, good-looking crowd of both gays and straights for dancing and schmoozing.

After dinner you might stroll along Fells Point’s brick sidewalks, perhaps as far west as the Inner Harbor – note the Domino Sugar factory across the water, where the East Coast’s largest neon sign glows into the wee hours. Until 11 p.m. on weekends, you can finish off your evening ramble with a dish of homemade ice cream at the legendary Maggie Moo’s at Thames and Broadway.

If you’re in the mood to bar-hop, make the trip to the city’s queer-entertainment hub, Mt. Vernon, a 10-minute cab ride from Fells Point and the eastern Inner Harbor. You can also take the Downtown Area Shuttle – the Blue Line runs directly to Mt. Vernon. The most famous queer hangout here is the Hippo, which is half dance club, half video bar. Lower-keyed options include Coconuts, the city’s best-attended lesbian bar, and Central Station, a three-level stand-and-model bar with a well-coiffed, mostly male clientele. Stagecoach is a favorite with the country-western set, the Eagle caters to leather-and-Levi’s fans, and Club Bunns draws a primarily African-American crowd.

Fells Point is a perfect spot for whiling away a Saturday morning. You might start by grabbing a latte or espresso at the Daily Grind, which sits directly across the street from the police headquarters in which the television show Homicide was filmed from 1993 through 1999. Quite of few of the show’s scenes were actually shot along this block, and many of the actors and crew hung out at this convivial coffeehouse.

Shopping is a favorite neighborhood pastime, a highlight being Ten Thousand Villages, which carries handcrafted gifts, pottery, textiles, and jewelry produced largely in developing nations, from El Salvador to Nepal. The shop’s mission is to support and nurture artisans in these countries by providing a nonexploitative venue for the sales of their goods. Along the same block, Su Casa sells a quirky and intriguing array of mod housewares, and Amuse offers a decidedly offbeat selection of toys and games, some that delight kids and others that bring out the youthful spirit of adults.

Of course, many people know Baltimore as the hometown of eccentric gay filmmaker John Waters – if you’re a fan of his work, be sure to check out the Baltimore Exchange, which claims to be the “pink flamingo headquarters of Baltimore.” Apart from having a nice selection of those infamous plastic lawn ornaments, Baltimore Exchange overflows with peculiar gifts and keepsakes.

Consider breaking for lunch with a meal at Kawasaki, which serves fresh sushi and Japanese fare in a bright dining room or at sidewalk tables overlooking the Fells Point water-taxi dock. Or stroll through the Broadway Market, the nation’s oldest produce and food market still operating on its original site (it was established in 1776) – there are several eateries and stalls here that make for great noshing. Spend the rest of your Saturday admiring more of Fells Point’s shops and courtly Federal-era buildings. Or take the water taxi over to the Inner Harbor – it’s just a short ride. At the Inner Harbor you’ll find the Maryland Science Center, the National Aquarium, the American Visionary Art Museum, the Harborplace Pavilion and Gallery Mall shopping centers, and legions of tourists.

Fells Point has several top-flight dinner options. Maybe the best two on Saturday night are Black Olive, an old-world town house whose kitchen turns out expertly prepared char-grilled seafood and steaks with an emphasis on Greek ingredients and recipes; and Charleston, which occupies the ground-floor of an office building between Fells Point and the Inner Harbor. Here you can try some of the finest Low Country fare outside South Carolina: the grilled pork rib chop slow cooked with roasted-garlic white beans and Savannah-style mustard-barbecue sauce is signature dish. These are the sorts of restaurants that are ideal for enjoying a long, leisurely meal.

Sundays are a laid-back time in Baltimore. You could plan a relaxing champagne brunch at the Hamilton Room, the elegant restaurant at the Admiral Fell Inn. Or opt for a less formal meal at the gay-popular Blue Moon Cafe, a Fells Point institution known for its fine coffees and such delicious breakfast fare as Maryland-crab eggs Benedict. Of course, whatever attractions or shopping adventures you weren’t able to cram into Saturday’s explorations you can try tackling today.

For a city that few visitors considered worthy of a weekend getaway a decade or two ago, Baltimore has come a long way. Specifically, Fells Point makes an enchanting, gay-friendly urban retreat in this city whose star is rising rapidly.

Related: Baltimore

An Atlanta Nightlife Primer

Andrew Collins
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An Atlanta Nightlife Primer

Appreciate Atlanta’s wealth of queer nightlife options

Atlanta isn’t just the regional hub of gay nightlife for the Southeast; it’s one of the top cities in the country for nightclubbing, bar-hopping, coffeehouse-crawling, and all-around merriment. Gay and lesbian revelers save up much of their energy for Saturday nights, but there’s usually something exciting going on at area clubs any night of the week. Visitors and recent transplants appreciate Atlanta’s wealth of queer nightlife options and also the air of friendliness and openness.

You can always find a drag show in Atlanta (RuPaul got started here) – everything from serious, traditional shows staged by strikingly realistic-looking female impersonators to campy productions headlined by saucy, foul-mouthed divas. Glitzy warehouse-style dance clubs are also common. And don’t overlook the city’s esteemed music scene: Several famous bands hail from Atlanta and environs, including the Indigo Girls, R.E.M., and the B-52s.

One drawback to partying in Atlanta is that the layout and topography favor driving over walking or even using public transportation. Many gay clubs and coffeehouses are in Midtown, a neighborhood rife with gay-friendly eateries, boutiques, and hotels. So if you’re planning a long night of revelry, try staying at one of the better hotels here, among them – the Four Seasons, the Hotel W, the Biltmore Suites, and the Hilton Garden Inn Midtown.

Virtually every queer clubster – male or female – in Atlanta eventually makes it to Backstreet, one of the most celebrated gay discos in the country; this multilevel circuit-style disco is open 24 hours. Visitors must buy a membership (good for three months); there’s an additional cover on Fridays and Saturdays. Don’t miss Backstreet’s notorious X-rated drag cabaret hosted by the bawdy Charlie Brown. Because the Armory nightclub, known for its cheap drinks and cruisy ambience, is nearly adjacent to Backstreet, lots of guys wander back and forth between both places. There are several bars and dance floors at the Armory; the best assets are the patio and spacious roof deck. Blu, noted for its fantastic sound system and laser light shows, is the city’s Saturday-night after-hours club (it does not have an alcohol license). The crowd of shirtless club bunnies generally reaches capacity around 2 or 3 in the morning.

Of stand-and-model video bars, Blake’s has the most desirable, though uppity, reputation. There’s a cozy and crowded main bar with bar stools, but these guys and gals are known to bare claws and fangs to capture them. A flight of stairs leads to a quieter video bar, off which you’ll find a sun porch and patio. Burkhart’s is one of the nicest video bars in town – the kind of place where you can walk up and chat with a stranger, hear both classic and current dance tunes, and jump right in to play pool with the regulars. In the same shopping center, you’ll find the newer video bar Oscar’s, which has become quite popular with guy-next-door types; spacious Colours, which draws a largely African-American crowd for dancing and cruising, thanks in part to its outstanding DJs spinning Latin and hip-hop tunes; and Felix’s, a low-decibel neighborhood bar popular with the over-35 set. Midtown also has a few mainstream spots with dedicated gay followings, among them Eleven50, a swank lounge-cum-art gallery that presents local and national rock concerts, and the ultra-cool Halo, a futuristic three-floor dance lounge inhabited by pretty, see-and-be-seen types.

The groovy suburb of Decatur, which borders Atlanta to the east, claims the region’s definitive lesbian club, My Sister’s Room. This homey, happy spot has trendy furnishings, big couches, a small outdoor stage that presents live acoustic music, and a restaurant serving light fare. An age-varied crowd frequents this hip nightspot where the emphasis is on socializing, not necessarily cruising and drinking. Decatur, by the way, has an engaging downtown with outstanding restaurants and many cool independent shops; it’s also home to the acclaimed live-music club, Eddie’s Attic, where the Indigo Girls became famous. There’s also Tower II, a dance club southeast of downtown Atlanta; it hosts open-mic poetry events some evenings and draws a racially mixed, mostly under-30 crowd.

Back in Midtown, Bulldogs draws an almost even mix of black and white guys – of all ages. It’s along a busy stretch of Peachtree Street, with an attractive private deck, several small indoor cocktail bars, and a lively but compact dance floor. Hoedown’s is a slick contemporary space with upscale decor but down-home country-western music and dancing. And the Atlanta Eagle is a favorite with leather men and bearish guys – it has an on-site boutique. Just north of Midtown, the Heretic exudes machismo. A strict leather or uniform dress code is enforced some nights and always encouraged. The cruising here can get very physical. And if getting physical is your aim, head to Flex, Atlanta’s only bathhouse, open 24 hours and with a heated indoor pool, clothing-optional sundeck, and both lockers and private cabins.

Metro is the city’s top draw for fans of go-go dancers – it’s also open later than most bars. Particularly appealing is the landscaped deck at the back of the building. Monday’s amateur strip night packs in the crowds. Other spots for watching male strippers include Pin-Up’s, which claims the largest all-nude revue in the South (it also has drag shows on some weekdays), and Swinging Richards, which employs a stable of some 75 performers. The Chamber is a mixed gay/straight fetish club where you can watch a variety of fascinating, kinky demonstrations representing every conceivable sexual taste. Goth music sets the tone for this den of exhibitionism.

In gentrified East Atlanta, a haven of artists and alternative types, check out Mary’s, which may be the coolest gay neighborhood bar in the city. This narrow bilevel space with mod furnishings and great music draws a more cerebral and artsy bunch than some of the city’s cruisier hangouts, and it’s equally popular among women and men. Other friendly neighborhood spots include cozy Tripps, which has some fun drag shows and some of the nicest barkeeps in town; Miss Q’s, a place to chit-chat, play pool and darts, and watch TV; racially diverse Model T, also with a notable drag following; and the long-running Buddies, which is just a casual no-nonsense bar with low attitude. Woof’s on Piedmont is Atlanta’s gay sports bar, with TV screens broadcasting live games and events and uniforms, banners, and similar-such memorabilia lining the walls. And Rico’s on Ponce is popular for its Sunday late-afternoon cookouts, held on a large deck with great views of the downtown skyline; downstairs is longtime locals’ drinkery, the Midtown Saloon.

If you should find yourself stuck in Newt Gingrich country (Cobb County, just northwest of the city), pop over to Le Buzz, in Marietta, which has karaoke and drag shows periodically, dancing on weekends, and free pool on Mondays. A newer option in the same area is the Breaking Point, a gay bar and grill welcoming a mixed-gender crowd and featuring drag and strip shows plus great dance music.

Of the many stylish coffeehouses in Atlanta, Aurora Coffee is a great option with a few gay-popular branches – these attractive, postmodern spaces have ample cushy seating. Close to Piedmont Park, Apres Diem offers inexpensive and tasty food, creative coffee drinks, and a full bar – it’s open till 2 a.m. on weekends and has an inviting patio. The gay and lesbian bookshop Outwrite has a charming and often-packed espresso bar with comfy chairs.

Atlanta, especially Midtown, also has dozens of restaurants where lesbians and gays mingle and nosh. Consider Red Chair Restaurant and Martini Lounge, a trendy smoke-free space with a very good contemporary American restaurant and a cool lounge with 10-foot-tall video screens. Two longtime favorites, owned by the same folks, are Einstein’s and Joe’s On Juniper, which are great either before hitting the bars or, on weekends, for brunch. Joe’s has a convivial bar with a long menu of martinis, bottled beers, and single-malts scotches. If you’re new in town, either of these neighboring establishments can be ideal for kicking off a night of bar-going.

Related: 72 Hours in Atlanta

Chicago’s Lakeview Neighborhood

Andrew Collins
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Chicago’s Lakeview Neighborhood

Lakeview, aka “Boystown,” has strong cachet among gays and lesbians

A world-class city with one of North America’s most dynamic gay populations, Chicago is also a metropolis of lively, distinctive neighborhoods. Two of these areas, both of them on the city’s North Side, have especially strong cachet among gays and lesbians. Lakeview, aka “Boystown,” hugs the Lake Michigan shoreline and contains the wealth of the city’s gay bars and restaurants. Andersonville, about 3 miles northwest, is smaller but still has a great variety of bars and eateries popular with the LGBT set.

Although most of Chicago’s accommodations are downtown (15 to 20 minutes south by cab or a bit longer via public transportation), Lakeview does have a handful of reasonably priced, gay-friendly lodging options. If you’re planning a good chunk of your time in Lakeview (and Andersonville, which has no hotels but is relatively nearby), consider one of these properties, which generally have more reasonable rates (and much less expensive parking) than comparable hotels downtown.

These include the three properties that make up the Neighborhood Inns group, a collection of charming, intimate boutique hotels in the heart of Lakeview. City Suites sits along busy Belmont Avenue, closest to the dining and club action, while the more romantic Majestic and Willows hotels are set along peaceful residential streets a few blocks from the bars. The gay-friendly Best Western Hawthorne Terrace is a reasonably priced little gem right in the heart of Lakeview, a short walk from the beach on Lake Michigan. Personal service, free Wi-Fi, in-room refrigerators and microwaves, and pleasant furnishings make this 59-unit property a winner.

Lakeview is one of the city’s best neighborhoods for dining. Jack’s on Halsted mixes international ingredients and recipes to create such memorable treats as grilled lemongrass-crusted salmon, and day scallops with mushroom-parmesan risotto and white-truffle oil. Head to the Pie Hole Pizzeria for outstanding pies (try the Greek version, with spinach, gyro meat, tomatoes, red onions, black olives, and feta). In the western reaches of the neighborhood, stop by Harmony Grill for creative comfort food, including fantastic mac and cheese and decadent “blondie” sundaes – it’s attached to the happening music club, Schuba’s Tavern.

Matsuya serves excellent sushi and Japanese fare, including such knock-out starters as deep-fried chicken wings and whitefish with smelt roe. Although many imitators have opened nearby, Mia Francesca remains the best place in the neighborhood for sophisticated but simple Northern Italian fare. You could survive solely on the flaky, freshly baked cinnamon rolls that accompany every meal at the hallowed Swedish diner Ann Sather, which has several gay-popular locations.

Those seeking healthy food should head for the Chicago Diner, which specializes in creative vegan and vegetarian fare and serves delicious baked goods. An attractive little Thai restaurant where the rice and noodle dishes are delicious and cheap, Joy’s Noodles serves a terrific ginger chicken with a fragrant bean sauce. If you’re a java junkie, keep in mind that the cozy Lakeview outpost of the Caribou Coffee chain is known locally as “Cariboy” and “Queeribou” – that should tell you all you need to know about the crowd.

Boystown is the heart of the city’s gay-male nightlife scene. The yuppie bar Roscoe’s is practically a Chicago institution, fun for dancing and cruising any night of the week. A guy guzzling Bud longnecks and another sipping cosmos can feel right at home together at Cocktail, an intimate storefront bar where friends often meet up before heading out to larger clubs. Chicago’s classic stand-and-model video bar, SideTrack has plenty of rooms for mingling. Hydrate is one of the hippest gay bars in town, great for after-work cocktails or late-night dancing and cruising.

A swank, smoke-free lounge known for its colorful cocktails and slick crowd, Minibar opened somewhat recently and has become a favorite after-work spot. A circuit-boy favorite on weekends, Circuit pulses with a feverish late-night dance crowd even at midweek, when Latin nights are a hit. The stylish Berlin disco draws a decidedly funkier and more alternative crowd than most of the preppy haunts in Lakeview. Nearby Spin is an eclectic gay club with an all-ages crowd and fun dance music. Charlie’s brings in fans of country-western music, while the Gentry on Halsted is a Boystown branch of downtown’s popular piano bar, favored for happy hour and later for live cabaret. Leather-and-Levi’s types cruise the Cell Block. Steamworks Chicago is a popular, clean, well-run sauna – it’s one of the nicest such facilities in the country.

You can continue your clubbing in funky Andersonville, which is the heart of the city’s lesbian scene but also home to a few men’s (mostly hard-core) leather bars, such as the Chicago Eagle, which is attached to a bathhouse and decorated like a motorcycle garage.

Women and their friends flock to Star Gaze, the neighborhood’s top lesbian club, which serves dinner and also has DJs on weekends, lesbian comedy and live-music nights, and a convivial beer garden. Atmosphere is a lively dance bar and lounge with a mixed gay male and lesbian crowd. And Andersonville is also home to a branch of the gay-oriented franchise, Hamburger Mary’s, a dapper two-level space that’s popular both as a gay bar and a fine place to eat. Stop by on Wednesdays nights for “Mary-Oke” karaoke fun, perhaps after feasting on a Barbra-Q-Bacon cheeseburger with cheddar, Jack cheese, and a tangy-smoky sauce.

One of the most talked-about new eateries in the area, Anteprima turns out superb modern Italian fare and has a warm dining room with pressed-tin ceilings and a shaded patio in back. Don’t pass up the grilled quail marinated in honey with balsamic vinegar and pancetta. A lively and atmospheric bistro with a decidedly queer following, Tomboy serves tempting fare like pan-seared duck with crimini mushrooms and a port glaze. T’s is a friendly, gay-popular restaurant and bar – it’s a favorite lesbian date spot, known for healthful American food.

Taste of Heaven Bakery is a great pick for delectable breakfasts and lunches, plus fresh-baked snacks throughout the day – the fried-egg sandwiches and peaches-and-cream French toast are favorites in the morning. Another wonderful spot to satisfy your sugar fix is Sweet Occasions, which serves some of the thickest and richest ice cream in the city, plus fantastic cupcakes, cherry cobbler, and homemade fudge. It’s hard not to love this old-fashioned parlor with ice-cream sundaes named for the seven deadly sins. The “Lust” (a chipotle brownie topped with cinnamon ice cream, hot fudge, whipped cream, and red hots) may leave you lusting for another trip to these two charming Chicago neighborhoods.

Related: Chicago

9 Things to Do in Philadelphia

Andrew Collins
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9 Things to Do in Philadelphia

The “City of Brotherly Love” makes is ideal for a summertime visit

No city in the United States played a more critical role in the nation’s founding than Philadelphia, and this progressive metropolis of about 1.5 million people has also been a pioneer in gay and lesbian rights. The Philadelphia Lesbian and Gay Task Force, formed in 1978, guided passage of the 1982 Philadelphia Fair Practices Act, one of the country’s earliest gay civil rights measures, and countless other gay-positive laws and policies have been passed or implemented since then. Additionally, the city’s office of tourism was one of the first to enthusiastically court gay and lesbian visitors. But apart from a warm welcome, what else about the “City of Brotherly Love” makes it ideal for a summertime visit?

Here’s a list of just a few notable things to see or do, chronicled in no particular order, that make Philadelphia so appealing:

1. Rittenhouse Square Park
City-planning guru Jane Jacobs called this tiny patch of paradise the most successful urban park in the United States; indeed, Rittenhouse Square is picturesque, socially diverse, highly safe, and largely unsullied by post-World War II architecture. Off the Square’s southeast corner is the prestigious Curtis Institute of Music, where Samuel Barber, Leonard Bernstein, and Ned Rorem studied, as well as the Philadelphia Art Alliance, which presents outstanding exhibits and art shows.

The square is also the site of the gay-friendly Rittenhouse Hotel, a sumptuous 98-room property that hosted the cast of the movie Philadelphia during filming. Rooms here are downright cavernous, averaging more than 500 square feet, and all have large windows framing the park or the city’s dramatic skyline. A short walk from the square, romantic Astral Plane has been a favorite gay-date restaurant since it opened in 1973 (it’s also drawn such fab celebs as Bette Midler, Liza Minnelli, Barry Manilow, and Tommy Tune). From the eclectic menu you might choose slow-roasted pork shank with asiago potatoes, or grilled scallops with lemongrass-and-ginger butter. It’s the perfect spot for a special dinner.

2. Clubbing in the Gayborhood
The city’s compact gay district, nicknamed the Gayborhood, contains the bulk of the Philadelphia’s gay bars as well as quite a few gay-popular shops, restaurants, and hotels. It’s right in the center of downtown, about as convenient to attractions, transportation, and entertainment as any gay neighborhood in America. Highlights include the city’s premier lesbian club, Sisters, a three-floor establishment with a restaurant and disco, and long-running Woody’s, a youthful video bar that pulls in a mostly male, somewhat cruisy, stand-and-model crowd. The ultra-swank Bump Lounge offers a more cosmopolitan ambience and is a great place to chat with friends, sip martinis, and dine on fine contemporary cuisine. Serious revelers head to Pure, the city’s top gay warehouse disco. Tavern on Camac is a charming gay piano bar, with a cozy restaurant in the basement. Other friendly options in the neighborhood include Uncles, popular with players on Philly’s lesbian and gay softball teams; 12th Air Command, a cavernous cruise bar with fun drag shows and dance parties; and the Venture Inn, the oldest gay bar in town, set in a historic tavern.

There are plenty of places to stay nearby. Particularly charming and well-priced, the gay-owned Alexander Inn is a fine boutique hotel right in the center of the action. The 48 rooms have a contemporary look with sleek furnishings and muted tones – other bonuses include satellite TV, Wi-Fi, and Continental breakfast buffet. Practically across from Woody’s, the Holiday Inn Express Midtown has well-kept rooms and reasonable prices. Another excellent choice that’s just steps from gay nightlife is the upscale Doubletree Philadelphia, a handsome, contemporary high-rise whose rooms afford superb city views. The hotel is a block away from the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, a magnificent 5-year-old space designed by seminal architect Rafael Vinoly.

3. Brunch at the White Dog
There’s nothing more relaxing on a sunny weekend morning or afternoon than enjoying brunch at a lively restaurant with great food and, ideally, some outside seating. Near the campus of the University of Pennsylvania, the gay-popular White Dog Cafe fits the bill perfectly. This bric-a-brac-filled eatery set in three adjacent Victorian town houses serves such delicious brunch fare as lemon-mascarpone pancakes with raspberry-maple syrup, and black-pepper-seared organic beef salad with crumbled blue cheese and balsamic vinaigrette. Also keep in mind that Astral Plane restaurant, mentioned above, serves a terrific brunch on Sundays.

4. Cheesesteaks at Geno’s or Pat’s
It may sound a bit cliched to search out a cheesesteak in this city that’s famous for them. But you’re here – and you may as well have a bite of Philadelphia’s quintessential treat. Many connoisseurs favor two neighboring joints a bit south of downtown, Geno’s and Pat’s (of course, plenty of ardent critics deride these two places as tourist traps and prefer other holes-in-the-wall around town). Pat’s is said to have invented this delicacy in 1930 – the restaurant serves ’em slathered with Cheez Whiz and fried onions, and the steak is finely chopped. Across the street at Geno’s, the steaks are not shredded, and instead of Cheez Whiz, they come topped with provolone. Which one is better? You be the judge.

5. The Philadelphia Museum of Art
One of the nation’s most esteemed art institutions, the Philadelphia Museum of Art sits within a dramatic Greek Revival building amid 10 landscaped acres. Standouts in the permanent collection include contemporary masterpieces by Picasso, Braque, and Matisse as well as works by a number of post-World War II artists. The outstanding Marcel Duchamp collection includes renditions of his Nude Descending a Staircase (The “nude,” people often overlook, is male). Check out the fine collection of photos and paintings by gay artist Thomas Eakins of young, virile men crewing and boating on the nearby Schuylkill River. There’s also an excellent display on Shaker furniture.

And that’s just scratching the surface. The museum is adjacent to lushly landscaped Fairmount Park, which straddles the Schuylkill River and comprises nearly 9,000 acres of picturesque gardens, walkways, and biking and bridle paths, plus about a dozen historic (mostly Colonial) mansions, which are open to the public.

6. Reading Terminal Market
For a century, the more than 80 stalls at the cavernous Reading Terminal Market have sold tantalizing, market-fresh foods, ranging from local produce to international dishes from around the world. There are too many great dining options to mention, but try not to miss the regional Mexican fare at 12th Street Cantina, the deli items at Salumeria, Amish treats at Beiler’s Bakery, ice cream at Bassetts, the Pennsylvania Dutch breakfasts at Dutch Eating Place, Italian hoagies at Carmen’s, and heavenly mac-and-cheese at Delilah’s. But wherever you end up eating, you won’t go wrong – around every corner you’ll see, smell, and have the chance to taste delicious food.

Related: A Gay Traveler’s Guide to Amsterdam

7. Independence National Historic Park
Even if you’re not a big history buff, you can’t visit Philadelphia and not soak up at least a whiff or two of the city’s amazingly rich heritage. The Old City neighborhood contains the bulk of the pre-1800s attractions, most them centered around Independence National Historical Park, which celebrates the very birth of our nation. Most famous is the Liberty Bell Pavilion, site of America’s beloved and cracked 2,000-pound bell. Although commonly thought to have played a significant role in Colonial history, the Liberty Bell actually rose to prominence during the 1830s as a symbol of the movement to abolish slavery.

Nearby Independence Hall is where the Second Continental Congress met in 1775, the Declaration of Independence was adopted in 1776, the Articles of Confederation were signed in 1778, and the Constitution was adopted in 1787. It was also the site of the city’s first major civil rights demonstrations (which included the concerns of lesbians and gays). The list of important sights within the park goes on and on – you could easily spend a full day here.

8. Giovanni’s Room
In an age when independent bookstores are struggling to keep their doors open, this wonderful LGBT bookstore that’s been going strong since 1973 is a true marvel. The homey two-floor shop on the edge of the Gayborhood has hundreds of queer titles plus a wealth of feminist works. There are several community bulletin boards, a wide range of periodicals, and a handful of skin mags, too. The staff is extremely helpful and has a real knack for finding out-of-print, import, or hard-to-find titles.

9. Coffee Klatch
Arguably the gayest java joint in town, Village Coffee House anchors the Gayborhood, offering caffeine addicts a cozy interior space as well as a charming enclosed patio that overlooks a neighborhood garden. Here you can sip specialty drinks (made with Fair Trade coffee beans), ogle cute patrons, and nosh on cookies, cheesecake, and tasty sandwiches.

A short walk away, the gay-friendly cafe More Than Just Ice Cream has been a fixture in the ‘hood for years, serving up what some insist is the best apple pie in world (sorry, Mom…). As the name suggests, you can also order ice cream (and delicious sundaes, specifically), but there are also fresh sandwiches, soul-warming soups, and plenty of coffee and tea drinks. It’s the best place in town to while away a rainy Sunday afternoon.

Related: Philly Escapes: New Hope, the Brandywine Valley, and Winterthur

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