Summer Fun in Minneapolis

Andrew Collins
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Summer Fun in Minneapolis

A few memorable ways to make the most of a summer visit to Minneapolis

The office of tourism in Minneapolis bills this gay-friendly city “the coolest place on earth,” and they’re not kidding. The climate here is downright chilly much of the year, but in summer, when a typical July or August day might see high temperatures in the 70s, Minneapolis becomes the meteorological envy of most Americans. The city’s great summer weather sets the tone for all sorts of enjoyable activities, from leisurely bike rides to gay pride festivities to meals al fresco at one of the region’s many inviting restaurants.

Here are a few memorable ways to make the most of a summer visit to Minneapolis.

Get a bird’s eye view of the city
Especially if it’s a clear day, make a trip to the elegant 32-story Foshay Tower, a 1929 landmark building with a public observation deck that affords terrific views for miles around. After your skyscraping adventure, take the elevator down to Cafe Un Deux Trois, an excellent choice for a lunch of first-rate French fare, such as steak tartare or mussels with fries.

The Foshay Tower is roughly the geographic center of downtown; linking it to buildings on more than 50 surrounding blocks is a vast network of second-story interior skyways – these come in quite handy on the blustery winter days for which Minnesota is famous. But if you’re a shopaholic, even during the warmer months, a walk through these skyways makes for great treasure- hunting (and downtown is a far more pleasant shopping venue than the overhyped Mall of America in nearby Bloomington). Shops accessible from the 5-mile skyway system include Marshall Field’s, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and a flagship store of the Minnesota- based, and gay-employee-friendly, Target Corporation.

Related: A Seattle Shopping Spree

Take a walk through the Warehouse District
The Warehouse Historic District, west of Hennepin Avenue, is characterized by stately, old-world architecture that’s rare elsewhere downtown. The 150 buildings here contain shops, restaurants, nightclubs, a few strip clubs and adult bookstores, and a growing number of art galleries – this is a stroll that’s equally interesting day or night. Most of the upper floors of these buildings have been reconfigured as loft apartments and design studios. Note the Cass Gilbert-designed Minneapolis Van and Warehouse Company Building, now the renowned Theatre de la Jeune Lune, which specializes in cutting-edge theatrical works.

This is a great neighborhood for gay-friendly dining. Try Cafe Havana for excellent Latin American food – it’s something of a playground for posing, sipping martinis, and smoking cigars. Or stop by Cafe Brenda for delightfully fresh and inventive organic cooking, like savory wild mushroom-pistachio pate and organic mock- duck tacos. Pizza Luce, staffed with punker-kid waitrons, is where a lot of fags like to dish over deep-dish pizzas. And for arguably the finest Northern Italian fare in the city, book a table at D’Amico Cucina, which is also notable for its stunning Art Nouveau interior and 500-vintage wine list.

Make a bicycle tour of the Chain of Lakes
There are 22 lakes within Minneapolis city limits, and the most prominent of these form the Chain of Lakes, a string of azure oases southwest of downtown. The terrain is mostly flat and the traffic generally slow along the roads that circumnavigate these lakes, making this exceptional biking – or blading and jogging – territory. You can rent bikes at Calhoun Rental, which is just a couple of blocks from Lake Calhoun and Lake of the Isles; rates (for basic bikes) begin at $6 per hour, $15 per half day, and $24 per full day.

Surrounding the lake are fashionable enclaves like Bryn Mawr, Calhoun-Isles, and Kenwood, in which many of the city’s wealthiest residents built houses in the late-19th and early 20th centuries. Real estate around these lakes remains pricey, although many of the large mansions have been divvied up into apartments. Such has not been the fate of the imposing private home at 2104 Kenwood Parkway, although its depiction in the opening credits of The Mary Tyler Moore Show, as the first residence of Mary Richards, might lead you to conjecture otherwise. Go ahead and cycle by, but don’t ask the no doubt frazzled owners for a tour – curiosity seekers are said to show up occasionally expecting to find the place laid out and decorated exactly as it appeared on the show, complete with Rhoda’s fabulous beaded doorway.

The Mary house is just a couple of blocks inland from the western shore of Lake of the Isles, a particularly picturesque member in the Chain of Lakes; it’s so named for the two small isles in the center of it. Due south is the largest of these rippling waterways, Calhoun Lake, around which legions of walkers and runners make their way. The grassy eastern shores, especially between 33rd and 34th streets, tend to be particularly popular among lesbians
and gays, many of whom live in the adjoining Uptown neighborhood. Continue southeast through leafy Berry and Lyndale parks to reach Lake Harriett, the final link in the chain.

Attend a performance or festival
Minneapolis’ GLBT Pride Festival and Parade, held the last weekend in June, is one of the best-attended such events in the world, drawing more than 250,000 each year. But summer is a great time to catch all kinds of concerts, shows, and events. The Twin Cities Gay Men’s Chorus performs at the Ted Mann Concert Hall at University of Minnesota; their summer concert, which in 2002 features the Broadway tunes of Rodgers and Hammerstein, is set for two nights during Gay Pride weekend.

After New York City, Minneapolis has the most theater seats per capita in the United States – there are dozens of venues throughout the city, from the famous Guthrie, the country’s largest regional theater, to cutting-edge spaces like the Hey City and Mixed Blood theaters, which often present works with lesbian, feminist, or gay themes.

Take a stroll around Loring Park
On the southwest edge of downtown, you’ll find one of Minneapolis’ most inviting green spaces, Loring Park, a seeming slice of small-town America that’s just steps from a clutch of modern office towers. Here a true mix of Minneapolitans wanders around the grassy shores of the park’s central pond, feeding ducks and enjoying the scenery. This is where the aforementioned gay pride parade commences the last weekend in June, and where Mary Richards seems to thank the stars for life in Minneapolis during the opening credits of The Mary Tyler Moore Show. (In a related note, a statue of MTM tossing her hat in the air, also as she does in the show’s credits, was unveiled at 7th Street and Nicollet Mall in May 2002).

A short street called Harmon Place fringes the north edge of the park and houses some neoboho shops and eateries, including the urbane Loring Cafe, which comprises an avant-garde theater, a relentlessly counter- cultural bar (with its own light menu), and a more formal dining room where you can sample tasty delicacies like chilled, seared ahi tuna. A couple of doors down, Joe’s Garage serves tasty global fare with such eclectic offerings as basil-pesto turkey burgers and red Thai curry-and-mushroom risotto. The restaurant’s motto, “Food fit for a king…and a few queens,” should clue you in to the giddy clientele. You can always order food to go at one of the above restaurants and enjoy your meal outside in the park. There may be no more perfect ending to a beautiful summer day in Minneapolis than a picnic with friends or your honey beside the pond in verdant Loring Park.

Related: Gay Minneapolis – Romance on the Mississippi River

Flourishing and Artsy San Antonio

Andrew Collins
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Flourishing and Artsy San Antonio

San Antonio makes for a delightful long-weekend getaway

The most-visited city in the state, San Antonio in many ways embodies the quintessential Texas spirit that outsiders seek but never seem to find in Austin, Dallas, and Houston. There’s also a flourishing arts scene, a sizable if somewhat inconspicuous gay community, and plenty of sophisticated restaurants and elegant hotels. Granted, this generally conservative city has no shortage of schmaltzy family attractions, raucous theme parks, touristy dance halls, and rowdy bars and chain restaurants. But with its rich history and engaging cultural attractions, San Antonio makes for a delightful long-weekend getaway.

The city’s downtown has been carefully protected by a zealous spirit of historic preservation. At the turn of the century, concerned local citizens fought developers bent on converting the Alamo into a hotel. Similar efforts led to the restoration of the city’s other iconic landmark, the San Antonio River, with its enchanting River Walk.

Only a fraction of the original Spanish Colonial mission known popularly as the Alamo stands today: the small chapel whose facade has come to symbolize the pride and independence of Texas, and one of the living quarters. The buildings are set within a tranquil walled plaza of lawns and gardens. It’s one of five missions built along the San Antonio River during the 18th century. The other four, which are south of downtown within 6 miles of one another, have been preserved and are open to the public. Stop by the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park for details.

Related: Queer Historic Sites of the East

Steps from the Alamo you’ll find the fabled River Walk, a network of cobbled and flagstone paths hugging the San Antonio River some 15 feet below street level. The branches of cypress and willow trees droop over the walk. During the day it makes for a peaceful stroll, and river taxis offer tours that provide an excellent sense of the architecture and greenery.

At the far northeastern edge of downtown, about a 15-minute walk from the Alamo, you’ll find the San Antonio Museum of Art, which inhabits the former Lone Star brewery and is famous for its Asian works and arguably the nation’s premier collection of Latin American art. A few blocks south of downtown, HemisFair Park contains the remnants of the 1968 World’s Fair attractions, including the 750-foot Tower of the Americas and several museums. Be sure to check out La Villita, a nearby complex of more than two dozen arts and crafts shops. Continue south to reach the King William Historic District, where many of San Antonio’s early German immigrants settled and built elaborate Victorian mansions. It’s adjacent to the more modest but increasingly hip Southtown area, which buzzes with funky shops, galleries, and restaurants.

If you have time to explore farther afield, consider checking out some of the notable attractions outside of downtown, such as the San Antonio Botanical Gardens, the Japanese Tea Gardens, the San Antonio Zoological Gardens and Aquarium, and the McNay Art Museum. And on the city’s true outskirts, there’s fun to be had at Schlitterbahn Waterpark, Seaworld of Texas, and Six Flags Fiesta Texas.

San Antonio has become decidedly more swank and sophisticated from a culinary perspective. Biga on the Banks earns praise for serving some of the finest contemporary American fare in Texas, including a mouthwatering venison with juniper sauce, goat-cheese strudel, frisee-gooseberry salad, and chili jam. A number of hip lounges and restaurants have popped up along Houston Street, including the much-talked-about Acenar, a sensuous, modern space overlooking the River Walk and presenting creative renditions of Tex-Mex cuisine.

Also on the river, Paesanos is a terrific Northern Italian trattoria, and it’s one of the relatively few spots in this area that draws as many locals as tourists. In Southtown, Azuca is an airy space decorated with colorful glass art (blown next door at Garcia Glass studio) and serving terrific Nuevo Latino fare, from ceviche to caramelized pork loin with mashed sweet yams and a caipirinha glaze. There’s live Latin music and dancing many evenings.

One of the most famous Mexican restaurants in Texas, La Fogata is worth the 15-minute drive north of downtown for its authentic cooking. In Southtown, Rosario’s, a loud and spacious joint with live music on weekends, offers such tasty Mexican recipes as chicken with pumpkin mole sauce. A funky dive that’s perfect when you have a fast-food craving, Pig Stand opened in 1921 and claims to be America’s first drive-in restaurant. It turns out amazingly good chicken-fried steak, thick malted milkshakes, and breakfast any time of day.

The historic Liberty Bar was a German-style beer garden for much of this century. These days, gay and straight locals drop by to mingle at the bar or nosh on pear and Stilton salad, peppered tenderloin, and traditional Mexican favorites. A longtime staple of the gay community, W. D. Deli is a cheerful spot with the best chicken tortilla soup around, and healthy sandwiches (try the turkey-avocado wrap) and salads.

Candlelight Coffeehouse is the perfect blend of a wine bar, cafe, and rainy-day hangout. In good weather enjoy the lushly landscaped patio. In the King William District, Madhatters draws a “who’s who” of local characters for coffee, beer, wine, conversation, and great food. And north of downtown near several of the city’s gay bars, Timo’s is a relatively new gay-owned coffeehouse serving tasty sandwiches, fresh smoothies, and leafy salads in addition to the usual coffees and teas.

There is one gay nightclub of note downtown, the long-running (and enormous) Bonham Exchange, lovingly nicknamed the “Bottom Exchange.” It’s a high-energy club drawing a mostly gay bunch along with quite a few straights for hot dancing. Most of city’s other well-frequented bars are clustered along North Main Avenue, less than a 10-minute drive from downtown. Here you’ll find the pulsing dance club Heat, which is jammed nightly with buff-bodied revelers, and The Saint, known for arguably the best drag shows in Texas.

Other North Main options include Pegasus, a convivial video bar with a volleyball court and patio out back, and the Silver Dollar Saloon, which plays a mix of Tejano and country-western music. San Antonio’s gay nightlife is decidedly male-oriented, even more so than in most other U.S. cities, but Petticoat Junction is a friendly neighborhood spot with a lesbian following. A few blocks away, the Annex is a rugged, cruisy bar with a leather-and-Levi’s following. A more hard-core leather hangout is the San Antonio Eagle. And just off I-35, ACI is the city’s quite popular bathhouse.

San Antonio has a wonderful mix of inviting accommodations, from quaint gay-friendly B&Bs to chic “designer” hotels to historic grande dames. Among gay-owned options, the Beauregard House B&B in the King William District occupies a handsome 1905 Victorian house done with sumptuous period furnishings and fabrics. The rooms are named for literary figures, such as Walt Whitman and William Faulkner. Breakfast here is outstanding – you might start the day with a apple-and-brie omelet, for instance. Straight-owned and in the same neighborhood, the Italianate-inspired Adams House B&B has four rooms done with lovely antiques and local artwork – the decor is elegant but not overdone.

A marvelous boutique hotel set inside a 1914 Mediterranean Revival former boarding school, the 28-room Havana Hotel captures the sophisticated sensibility of 1920s Paris along with the romance of vintage Cuba. It’s on one of the less noisy stretches of the River Walk. Opened in November 2005, the sleek and contemporary Hotel Contessa has quickly drawn raves for its palatial rooms with floor-to-ceiling river views, 12-story atrium lobby, and friendly staff. Mokara Hotel & Spa, which occupies a former saddlery and has 99 of the snazziest rooms in the state, also offers highly polished service as well as a state-of-the-art spa and superb dining in its Pesca on the River restaurant. Finally, looking more West Hollywood than Central Texas, the uber-hip Hotel Valencia provides a strikingly contemporary contrast to the historic downtown blocks that surround it. The hotel’s restaurant, Citrus, serves wonderfully inventive contemporary American food. And there may not be a sexier room in the city than the Valencia’s V Bar – definitely plan to toast your visit with a cocktail in this vibrant lounge.

Weekending in Washington D.C.

Andrew Collins
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Weekending in Washington D.C.

This progressive metropolis has an impressive array of venues for gay travelers

If Washington, D.C., has any drawback for weekend visitors, it’s that it has far too many museums, monuments, and attractions to visit in just two or three days. Furthermore, this progressive metropolis has developed an impressive array of cosmopolitan restaurants, festive gay bars, and hip hotels in recent years. There’s a lot to see and do, but if your time in town is limited, don’t fret – with a little planning and plenty of stamina, you can enjoy a wonderfully engaging and enriching weekend in the national capital.

Your first night in town, consider grabbing a light dinner in Dupont Circle, and then perhaps exploring a few of the neighborhood’s extensive gay-nightlife options. P Street due west of Dupont Circle cultivates an interesting mix of eateries – one of the best is Pizzeria Paradisio, which bakes tantalizingly good wood-fired pies. Or just off busy 17th Street, another stretch of popular if less critically acclaimed restaurants, you can tuck into such down-home fare as Old Bay-seasoned peel ‘n’ eat shrimp and tangy barbecued oysters at Hank’s Oyster Bar, one of the culinary stars of the city.

A few of the many notable spots for Friday bar-hopping including J.R.’s, a classic stand-and-model video bar on 17th Street, and its multi-level down-the-street neighbor, Cobalt. Over near P Street, Omega is the grandpa of Dupont Circle gay clubs – a racially diverse disco and lounge that packs in crowds into the wee hours.

On Saturday morning, preface a day of sightseeing by enjoying a light breakfast at the Dupont Circle branch of the local Firehook Bakery and Coffeehouse chain. Or for a more substantial brunch, try the cafe at the long-running indie bookstore, Kramerbooks & Afterwards – the Maine lobster omelet topped with lemon hollandaise sauce is a real crowd-pleaser.

Related: Washington D.C. On a Budget or a Bankroll

When it comes to cultural attractions, Washington is an embarrassment of riches – there may be no other city in the nation with a greater number of daytime diversions. Among the possibilities along the city’s National Mall, try to check out a few of the Smithsonian Institution museums. Highlights include the National Air and Space Museum, the National Museum of American History, and the National Portrait Gallery. Also set aside time to see the moving U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum, which distributes a pamphlet, “Homosexuals,” that details the persecution of gays and lesbians in Nazi-occupied Europe; there are also gay video testimonies in the museum’s library.

If you’re an art lover, don’t miss the city’s largest non-federal museum, the Beaux-Arts-style Corcoran Gallery of Art, which contains more than 11,000 works of art. Its emphasis is on late-19th- and early 20th-century European painting, American painting and portraiture, and photography. The Corcoran has an excellent little cafe, perfect for grabbing a light lunch to break up your explorations. Several blocks north of the Mall, in Old Downtown, is the outstanding National Museum of Women in the Arts. The permanent collection includes works by the likes of Georgia O’Keeffe, Mary Cassatt, Frida Kahlo, and Berenice Abbott, and quite a few excellent rotating installations keep this facility fresh and exciting.

In the evening, head to the city’s exciting and constantly evolving U Street corridor, a 10-minute walk northeast of Dupont Circle. A number of hip restaurants have opened in this neighborhood in recent years. Start off at Cork Wine Bar, a spacious haunt drawing a trendy crowd for mostly Italian, Spanish, and French wines by the glass and bottle, and light tapas (a full selection of entrees are available, in case you’d rather just dine here for the evening). For nibbles, consider the avocado served with pistachios, toasted-pistachio oil, sea salt, and grilled bread.

Next, stroll a few blocks north to Marvin, an elegant but relaxed Belgian bistro with an innovative Low Country Carolina spin. Don’t miss such memorable starters as Southern-inspired shrimp-and-grits, or Belgian-style moules frites with shallots, fennel, and white wine. Country-fried chicken with waffles, and braised pork shank with French green lentils rank among the top main courses.

From here you’re within walking distance of some of the city’s hottest gay bars, among them Be Bar, a dark and urbane spot with a small but packed dance floor and a mixed-gender following; Halo, a cool and colorful bi-level lounge that’s especially popular earlier in the night; and Nellie’s Sports Bar, a modern and stylish take on a classic sports bar that pulls in a mix of women and men. Serious revelers should finish the night at Town, a late-night gay disco that’s slightly off the beaten path (you might want to cab it here) – this bustling warehouse club is open till 4 a.m.

Having spent Saturday touring museums, set aside Sunday for a more relaxing, outdoorsy exploration of some of the city’s charming neighborhoods, where lively shops and “family”-friendly cafes proliferate. Begin in the morning by walking north from Dupont Circle up to the artsy and international Adams-Morgan neighborhood, which is home to a mix of West African, Asian, and Latino restaurants and residential enclaves. Have brunch at gay-popular Perry’s, an Asian-influenced modern American restaurant with a commendable sushi bar – the acclaimed Sunday drag brunch is a delightful experience if you don’t mind a towering drag queen plopping down on your lap and scrambling your eggs to the disco remix of “Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina.”

Head back to Dupont Circle for a leisurely tour of the neighborhood, which has been one of the nation’s most gay-identified enclaves for more than four decades, although it’s becoming increasingly more eclectic each year. The area possesses a wealth of open spaces, parks, statuary, and grand 19th-century architecture. You’ll find quirky and engaging shops and eateries on virtually all of the major streets fanning out from the Dupont traffic circle.

In case you still have the energy to tour one more museum, consider stopping by the neighborhood’s top cultural attraction, the stunning Phillips Collection. The first permanent museum of modern art in the nation, the Phillips contains many works by Georges Braque, Mark Rothko, Paul Klee, and Henri Matisse, as well as creations by such gay artists as David Hockney, Thomas Eakins, and Marsden Hartley.

To the west of Dupont Circle, across Rock Creek, is the upscale neighborhood of Georgetown, an excellent place to spend a few hours shopping on a Sunday afternoon. Head to the intersection of M Street and Wisconsin Avenue to find Georgetown’s retail pulse.

On Sunday evening, head to another of the city’s engaging and gay-popular neighborhoods, Capitol Hill, which has a handful of excellent options for dinner. At the upscale restaurant Sonoma, you can dine on superbly crafted contemporary American fare and with pairings from a dazzling wine list. A sure bet for both excellent food (of the Latin American variety) and lively cabaret is the Banana Cafe, a colorfully decorated spot with a crowd completely diverse in age, gender, and style.

The Capitol Hill pub Mr. Henry’s, with one of the best (antique) jukeboxes in town, is a great place to meet or make friends, and nosh on casual American fare. Upstairs is a smoke-free cabaret where talented vocalist Roberta Flack got her start. Nearby, fans of country-western dancing flock to the gay bar Remingtons, and the popular lesbian bar Phase One has been the cornerstone of D.C.’s women’s scene since 1970 – there’s live music here many evenings.

In terms of where to stay during your D.C. weekend, Dupont Circle is a great lodging base, as it’s rife with hip and gay-friendly hotels, and it’s close to just about all of the noteworthy sections of the city. With a great location in the heart of the neighborhood, the stylish Renaissance Dupont Circle Hotel has sleek, modern rooms with a high-tech amenities and super-cushy linens. This is a great choice for art lovers, as the hotel regularly teams up with the Corcoran Gallery of Art to offer special deals that include admission to the museum’s latest exhibit, a walking map of the city, an artful in-room goodie bag, breakfast for two in the hotel’s M Bar, and preferred room rates.

Part of the gay-friendly Kimpton Group, the Hotel Palomar occupies a striking mid-rise along P Street’s restaurant row. The 335 units are among the largest guest accommodations in the city, and tall windows let in plenty of sunshine – Frette linens, upholstered headboards, marble bathrooms, and faux-alabaster nightstands lend a sophisticated, stylish vibe. A complimentary wine reception each evening, an outdoor lap pool, and an outstanding Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, Urbana, round out the many fine amenities.

Kimpton has several other great hotels in Washington (as well as a few cool properties just across the border in the northern Virginia cities of Alexandria and Arlington). Another highlight not far from Dupont Circle is the dashing Hotel Rouge, which sits just off classy Embassy Row, an easy walk from gay nightlife on R Street. It contains 137 spacious rooms bathed in reds and yellows and a swanky lounge serving such memorable cocktails as the Madonna (Cuervo, Grand Marnier, Cointreau, and fresh orange and lime juices). It’s a fine spot to kick off an evening of exploring either the bars of Dupont Circle, or the growing scene a few blocks away in the U Street Corridor.

Denver

Andrew Collins
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Denver

The Denver gay community is very visible, both socially and professionally

Denver has long been one of the country’s great centers of lesbian and gay culture. The GLBT community here is highly visible – socially, professionally, and politically – and gay-friendly restaurants, bars, hotels, and other businesses are easy to find in a number of prominent neighborhoods. With several new or expanded high-profile museums, easy access to skiing and hiking, a sunny climate, and relative affordability compared with other big urban centers, the Mile High City makes for a highly appealing vacation destination, whether for a couple of days or a full week of exploration.

The city’s bustling, modern downtown skyline is dominated by soaring skyscrapers. Here you can wander along 16th Street, a popular pedestrian mall filled with mostly upscale chain shops. Or explore artsy Larimar Square, a restored Victorian block of hip boutiques and cafes – be sure to check out the Market at Larimer Square, a coffeehouse-bakery-deli where a cool crowd enjoys mocha lattes, hearty breakfast burritos, and hefty pastrami sandwiches.

Larimar Square marks the edge of dapper LoDo, which began as the city’s shipping and retail center in the late 19th century. As recently as the 1980s, however, the neighborhood had been reduced to slums and abandoned brick warehouses. LoDo’s comeback began when artists started converting these classic redbrick buildings into galleries and studios. A flood of restaurants, coffeehouses, and shops followed, as did stately Coors Field, home to baseball’s Colorado Rockies. You can easily spend a few hours exploring this attractive district, perhaps dropping by the Tattered Cover, one of the country’s most beloved independent bookstores, which has an outstanding LGBT section. Another retail must is Rockmount Ranch Wear, a circa-1940s outlet for authentic Western shirts, belts, hats, and bolo ties – this is the very shop that provided those down-home sexy shirts worn by Heath Ledger and Jake Gyllenhaal in Brokeback Mountain.

South of downtown you’ll find Capitol Hill, which is anchored on one end by the gilt-domed State Capitol building. It overlooks a grassy mall surrounded by the Colorado History Museum and the spectacular Denver Art Museum, which underwent a dramatic expansion and redesign in 2005. The Capitol Hill neighborhood, which extends east from the Capitol building, is where many of the city’s LGBT residents live. On sunny days, check out lovely Cheesman Park and the nearby the Denver Botanic Garden.

If you’re keen on shopping, head a few miles southeast of downtown to the Cherry Creek area, where you’ll find numerous opportunities for browsing and bargain-hunting at upscale Cherry Creek Shopping Center and Cherry Creek North. These two premier shopping destinations contain a mix of top chain and independent stores. In the evening, try out one of the neighborhood’s fine restaurants, such as trendy Ocean, a haute seafood eatery, or North, which serves exceptional modern Italian fare.

Dining is one area where Denver has truly come into its own in recent years. If you’re a serious foodie, sample one of the restaurants run by Denver’s acclaimed expert on innovative Mexican cuisine, Richard Sandoval. Best bets include Tamayo, near lively Larimer Square, and trendy Zengo, a boldly decorated space just north of LoDo, where Sandoval fuses the best of Asian and Latin cuisine, serving everything from sushi to ceviche.

A good bet for dining in LoDo is Vesta, which operates on a quirky premise: you choose three sauces (perhaps pistachio-mint or grilled onion jam) for dipping with whatever entree you choose, from grilled venison to harissa-roasted half chicken. You’ll find simpler fare at Dixon’s Downtown Grill, a nice choice for fish-and-chips and blue-cheese burgers, and the festive Wynkoop Brewing Company, which serves the best green chile stew in town, plus a wide range of handcrafted beers. Near Larimer Square, chic Rioja serves creative, world-beat cuisine, such as Dungeness crab-and-shiso spring rolls, and grilled maple-cured pork chops with Calvados sauce.

Favorite restaurants on Capitol Hill include Il Vicino, which turns out creative pizzas and salads along with microbrewed ales, and Sparrow, a convivial neighborhood spot serving such inventive regional American fare as pumpkin-chicken served with pancetta risotto, sage, and cider. The local java chain Diedrich’s Coffee has a particularly gay-popular branch in Capitol Hill, too.

The city has some great places for breakfast fare, including the gay fave Racine’s, which is open late and serves three meals daily. For amazingly tasty pancakes, head to Snooze, an offbeat storefront space near Coors Field where you might start the morning off with pineapple-upside-down pancakes or vanilla-almond oatmeal brulee. On weekend mornings, don’t miss the legendary drag brunch, called Petticoat Bruncheon, held at Bump & Grind, a colorful bakery and cafe.

One of city’s great strengths is its cultural scene, with many of the top events held at the esteemed, high-tech Denver Center for the Performing Arts (DCPA), the second-largest such space in the nation (trailing only New York City’s Lincoln Center). It comprises several performance venues and hosts everything from nationally touring musicals to acclaimed opera. Before a performance, plan to have dinner at DCPA’s top restaurant, Kevin Taylor’s. In this elegant basement space, sample such creative fare as Black Angus carpaccio with white-truffle oil, or charbroiled Colorado lamb chops with braised lentils and black olive jus.

Denver has a friendly, eclectic gay nightlife, with a pleasing mix of hip cocktail lounges, pulsing dance clubs, and friendly neighborhood bars. One of the most popular hangouts is J.R.’s, an upscale, bi-level video bar in Capitol Hill that hosts such entertaining events as gong show karaoke and Broadway musical sing-alongs. Nearby Charlie’s is a famously fun country-western club with line-dancing and two-stepping, plus a restaurant serving decent American fare.

The Denver Detour is a mostly lesbian-oriented hangout that’s popular early in the evening for happy hour cocktails – it’s right by the State Capitol. Other good women’s options include tHERe Denver, a lesbian-owned coffeehouse and lounge, and Ms. C’s, a long-running lesbian dance club a 20-minute drive east of downtown.

Just south of Capitol Hill, the South Broadway area has several notable locals joints, including BJ’s Carousel, which has its own volleyball court and a casual restaurant. You’ll find a somewhat cruisy bunch at the Compound, a low-attitude dance club that’s popular with everyone from collegiate hipsters to middle-aged bears. The Triangle, for the serious leather crowd, has a big after-hours following and a notoriously frisky basement. And Boyztown is one of the better places in town to watch strippers strut their stuff.

Weekends are the best time to check out Denver’s most happening gay nightclub, the always-packed Tracks Denver, a massive warehouse disco with two pulsing dance floors, one spinning the latest club music, the other featuring classic tunes from the ’70s and ’80s.

Denver has a number of memorable gay-friendly hotels. The swanky, pet-friendly Hotel Monaco is a top choice for its hip, Parisian-inspired aesthetic and remarkably friendly and helpful service. Vibrant, stylish decor and quirky in-room touches, such as animal-print robes and pet goldfish, make this downtown boutique property a fan favorite. The on-site restaurant, Panzano, serves first-rate contemporary Italian fare.

Having earned praise for its stylish look as well as its location across from the Denver Center for the Performing Arts, The Curtis looks like just another high-rise from the exterior. But inside you’ll discover a whimsical, retro-fabulous hotel that looks like something out of an Austin Powers movie. Each floor of guestrooms is themed differently – rooms on the eighth level have a sci-fi look, while those on the 12th are done with a get-your-groove-on dance-floor theme. Moderate rates, VW Bug-shaped alarm clocks, and a cool eatery called the Corner Office Restaurant and Martini Bar are among the Curtis’ many charms.

Related: Great National Park Vacations

If you want to be close to the fabulous shopping of Cherry Creek, consider booking a room at the posh JW Marriott Denver, a contemporary 11-story hotel whose cushy accommodations have 32-inch flat-screen TVs, DVD/CD players, marble-and-granite bathrooms, and plush bedding with custom duvets and linens. The sterling service is another plus.

One of the most romantic options is the gay-owned Capitol Hill Mansion B&B, a stately Queen Anne Victorian on an attractive residential street. Owners Jay Hadley and Carl Schmidt serve a lavish full breakfast each morning as well as refreshments and snacks in the afternoon; guests enjoy such pleasing amenities as free Wi-Fi and fresh flowers in every room, and gas fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, and private balconies in the top units. In the same neighborhood, the gay-friendly Castle Marne B&B offers similarly cushy, antiques-filled rooms. The imposing 1889 building is one of Denver’s most distinctive houses, with its elaborate turrets and stonework.

Probably no Denver hotel is more famous than the prestigious Brown Palace Hotel & Spa, which has hosted such dignitaries as Teddy Roosevelt and Sun Yat-sen during its 115-year tenure. Even if you don’t have a chance to stay in one of the hotel’s lavish rooms, consider dropping by for the daily afternoon high tea or evening cocktails in the famed Atrium Lobby, or for the decadent Dom Perignon brunch held in Ellyngton’s Restaurant on Sunday mornings.

Explore Milwaukee

Andrew Collins
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Explore Milwaukee

This rather low-key city has a surprisingly vibrant gay scene

Milwaukee’s tourist board likes to welcome potential visitors by touting the city’s “traditional, small-town values.” Interestingly, this same tourist board actively promotes gay tourism, and Milwaukee has a distinctly gay-friendly vibe.

People often assume that Madison, the progressive and intellectual hub of Wisconsin, has the state’s only real draw for lesbians and gays. But, arguably, Milwaukee has just as vibrant a gay scene. Small-town values do prevail here, but only in the sense that most folks in this industrial metropolis of nearly 600,000 respect each other’s differences without necessarily making a big fuss about them. Sexual orientation just isn’t a big whoop.

This low-keyed city lies two hours north of Chicago by car, situated dramatically overlooking Lake Michigan. Outsiders are quick to associate Milwaukee with bowling, Laverne & Shirley, and kitschy German restaurants with dirndl-clad waitresses and bucket-size beer steins. There’s nothing really wrong with these stereotypes, but Milwaukee has far more to recommend it. For instance, the city has quietly emerged as one of the Midwest’s leading centers of the visual and performing arts – with a highly acclaimed ballet and symphony, two opera companies, countless theaters, and a world-class art museum. Milwaukee also has dozens of lesbian and gay social and political groups, and the June PrideFest celebration consistently draws more than 17,000 visitors.

Begin your explorations with a stroll through Milwaukee’s dynamic downtown along colorful Old World 3rd Street, which is lined with dignified 19th-century cast-iron buildings. Head west a few blocks to reach the Milwaukee Public Museum, which surveys natural history and contains an alluring butterfly garden as well as the Humphrey Imax Dome Theater. State Street leads east from the river to the Theater District, whose two anchors are the Marcus Center for the Performing Arts and, just south, the Milwaukee Repertory Theater. Promenades run along the nearby Riverwalk, passing beside waterfront terraces of trendy restaurants and bars. River tour boats depart regularly from Pere Marquette Park, where concerts and events are staged.

South of downtown, across the Menomonee River, is the Mitchell Park Horticultural Conservatory, under whose 85-foot glass domes thrive tropical, desert, and other flora. Entertaining tours are given daily of the nearby Miller Brewery – the company is a major contributor to gay causes in Milwaukee and around the nation.

The city’s most celebrated attraction, however, is east of downtown along the lakefront. Here you can visit the Eero Saarinen-designed Milwaukee Art Museum, which is impossible to miss with its striking Quadracci Pavilion. Strengths of the permanent collection are German Expressionism, American Modernism, and folk art.

North along Prospect Avenue are some of Milwaukee’s most gay-popular residential districts, including the Brady Street area, which buzzes with yuppies, skate punks, and elderly Italians who settled here decades ago. Nearby is a fine example of Edwardian architecture and decor, the Charles Allis Art Museum – especially notable here are the collections of Barbizon and Hudson River School paintings. The museum also operates Villa Terrace Decorative Arts Museum, a 1920s mansion built in the style of a 16th-century Italian Renaissance palazzo and containing a priceless collection of paintings, wrought- iron decorative arts, and antiques. The gardens alone justify a visit.

Related: Three Great New York Neighborhoods

Head south to reach the Historic Third Ward, a patch of renovated warehouses that contain restaurants, art galleries, and antiques shops. Billed as Milwaukee’s “Off Broadway,” the district is also home to experimental theaters.

Milwaukee has several excellent, gay-friendly lodging options. A sophisticated all-suite hotel in a converted 1930s downtown building, Hotel Metro has touches of Art Deco in the large, open rooms outfitted with down comforters and spacious, slate-floor bathrooms. County Clare is a distinctive boutique property with reasonable rates. The beautifully appointed rooms have four-poster beds, data ports and fax lines, and double whirlpool tubs. Quaff a pint of Guinness in the Irish pub on the ground floor.

Milwaukee’s dining scene is up-and-coming, but one restaurant, Sanford, has been a culinary wonder for years – a highlight is the sauteed soft-shell crab on scalded spinach and lemon spaetzle with a caper vinaigrette. The same owners also run a more casual bistro, Coquette Cafe, in a converted loft in the Historic Third Ward. Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro, apart from offering great water views, presents a well-executed menu of classic French cuisine. And owned by a woman who treks back to Italy in search of new recipes, Mimma’s trattoria has been a catalyst for the Brady Street renaissance. The Hi Hat Lounge is another offbeat hangout in this neighborhood; it’s known for its terrific Sunday brunch, happy-hour martini specials, cozy sofas, and live jazz.

Nearly opposite the Eisner Museum, trendy Sauce is a high-ceilinged haunt of artists and fashion plates with a curvy bar and sexy food – try the pan-seared lamb sirloin with risotto, sauteed broccoli rabe, and a bourbon-mint sauce. Blueberry cobbler is a knock-out dessert. In a vintage brick building nearby, gay-popular Bella is a warm and inviting coffeehouse that’s perfect for hanging out with a good book or munching on decadent desserts. Steps from several gay bars, La Perla is a lively late-night Mexican restaurant with commendably spicy food. In warm weather, dine on the deck out back. After the bars close, plenty of queer revelers head to Big Mama’s Diner, which stays open till 4 in the morning.

It should come as no surprise that the city that organized the nation’s first gay softball teams and bowling league has some intense queer sports bars. The guys at the Ballgame definitely know the score and don’t hesitate to express their allegiances during televised games. Milwaukee also has a saucy leather scene, and Boot Camp is a main player. It’s dark in here (duh) and packed on weekends. For a breath of air, or to get a better look at your suitor, head for the patio. Similarly popular with the leather crowd is the Harbor Room. A place to go when you gotta dance, Dish is a hip and homey lesbian-owned club that’s women-only some nights, mixed on others. Also dyke-owned, Walker’s Pint is a cool, super-friendly tavern with an attractive interior and a wide selection of brews – a big plus is the beer garden.

Another great place to strike a pose, Orbit pulls in a youthful and pretty crowd; still, this is Milwaukee, and nobody puts on airs in here. Musical theme nights – reggae Tuesdays, blues & jazz Thursdays – keep the mix interesting. One of the friendlier bars in town, Fluid is a mirrored cocktail lounge with a lively bar in front and lounge seating in back. You’re sure to see Milwaukee’s die-hard clubbers at brightly lit LaCage, which has also has a lively video bar. Stylish sorts head to the M&M Club, an old-fashioned tavern in the Historic Third Ward. The space is beautiful – gilt frame mirrors, pressed-tin ceilings, and a tree-shaded deck. There’s live piano and cabaret some nights. Here you’ll also find Milwaukee’s premier gay restaurant, Glass Menagerie, which serves traditional American and Continental fare.

Around the corner from Cathedral Square, This Is It is Milwaukee’s only downtown gay bar, with a retro-hip interior that resembles a 1960s airport cocktail lounge. The crowd is eclectic and at times eccentric, the drinks cheap and stiff. A relatively popular cruise and video bar in Walker’s Point, the Triangle is a homey tavern with a plant-filled patio. And last but not least, Club Boom is a super-cruisy place that often throws underwear parties; the guys here usually show up with one thing on their mind, making it a likely spot to end a night of bar-crawling.

Related: Madison

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