An Atlanta Nightlife Primer

Andrew Collins
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An Atlanta Nightlife Primer

Appreciate Atlanta’s wealth of queer nightlife options

Atlanta isn’t just the regional hub of gay nightlife for the Southeast; it’s one of the top cities in the country for nightclubbing, bar-hopping, coffeehouse-crawling, and all-around merriment. Gay and lesbian revelers save up much of their energy for Saturday nights, but there’s usually something exciting going on at area clubs any night of the week. Visitors and recent transplants appreciate Atlanta’s wealth of queer nightlife options and also the air of friendliness and openness.

You can always find a drag show in Atlanta (RuPaul got started here) – everything from serious, traditional shows staged by strikingly realistic-looking female impersonators to campy productions headlined by saucy, foul-mouthed divas. Glitzy warehouse-style dance clubs are also common. And don’t overlook the city’s esteemed music scene: Several famous bands hail from Atlanta and environs, including the Indigo Girls, R.E.M., and the B-52s.

One drawback to partying in Atlanta is that the layout and topography favor driving over walking or even using public transportation. Many gay clubs and coffeehouses are in Midtown, a neighborhood rife with gay-friendly eateries, boutiques, and hotels. So if you’re planning a long night of revelry, try staying at one of the better hotels here, among them – the Four Seasons, the Hotel W, the Biltmore Suites, and the Hilton Garden Inn Midtown.

Virtually every queer clubster – male or female – in Atlanta eventually makes it to Backstreet, one of the most celebrated gay discos in the country; this multilevel circuit-style disco is open 24 hours. Visitors must buy a membership (good for three months); there’s an additional cover on Fridays and Saturdays. Don’t miss Backstreet’s notorious X-rated drag cabaret hosted by the bawdy Charlie Brown. Because the Armory nightclub, known for its cheap drinks and cruisy ambience, is nearly adjacent to Backstreet, lots of guys wander back and forth between both places. There are several bars and dance floors at the Armory; the best assets are the patio and spacious roof deck. Blu, noted for its fantastic sound system and laser light shows, is the city’s Saturday-night after-hours club (it does not have an alcohol license). The crowd of shirtless club bunnies generally reaches capacity around 2 or 3 in the morning.

Of stand-and-model video bars, Blake’s has the most desirable, though uppity, reputation. There’s a cozy and crowded main bar with bar stools, but these guys and gals are known to bare claws and fangs to capture them. A flight of stairs leads to a quieter video bar, off which you’ll find a sun porch and patio. Burkhart’s is one of the nicest video bars in town – the kind of place where you can walk up and chat with a stranger, hear both classic and current dance tunes, and jump right in to play pool with the regulars. In the same shopping center, you’ll find the newer video bar Oscar’s, which has become quite popular with guy-next-door types; spacious Colours, which draws a largely African-American crowd for dancing and cruising, thanks in part to its outstanding DJs spinning Latin and hip-hop tunes; and Felix’s, a low-decibel neighborhood bar popular with the over-35 set. Midtown also has a few mainstream spots with dedicated gay followings, among them Eleven50, a swank lounge-cum-art gallery that presents local and national rock concerts, and the ultra-cool Halo, a futuristic three-floor dance lounge inhabited by pretty, see-and-be-seen types.

The groovy suburb of Decatur, which borders Atlanta to the east, claims the region’s definitive lesbian club, My Sister’s Room. This homey, happy spot has trendy furnishings, big couches, a small outdoor stage that presents live acoustic music, and a restaurant serving light fare. An age-varied crowd frequents this hip nightspot where the emphasis is on socializing, not necessarily cruising and drinking. Decatur, by the way, has an engaging downtown with outstanding restaurants and many cool independent shops; it’s also home to the acclaimed live-music club, Eddie’s Attic, where the Indigo Girls became famous. There’s also Tower II, a dance club southeast of downtown Atlanta; it hosts open-mic poetry events some evenings and draws a racially mixed, mostly under-30 crowd.

Back in Midtown, Bulldogs draws an almost even mix of black and white guys – of all ages. It’s along a busy stretch of Peachtree Street, with an attractive private deck, several small indoor cocktail bars, and a lively but compact dance floor. Hoedown’s is a slick contemporary space with upscale decor but down-home country-western music and dancing. And the Atlanta Eagle is a favorite with leather men and bearish guys – it has an on-site boutique. Just north of Midtown, the Heretic exudes machismo. A strict leather or uniform dress code is enforced some nights and always encouraged. The cruising here can get very physical. And if getting physical is your aim, head to Flex, Atlanta’s only bathhouse, open 24 hours and with a heated indoor pool, clothing-optional sundeck, and both lockers and private cabins.

Metro is the city’s top draw for fans of go-go dancers – it’s also open later than most bars. Particularly appealing is the landscaped deck at the back of the building. Monday’s amateur strip night packs in the crowds. Other spots for watching male strippers include Pin-Up’s, which claims the largest all-nude revue in the South (it also has drag shows on some weekdays), and Swinging Richards, which employs a stable of some 75 performers. The Chamber is a mixed gay/straight fetish club where you can watch a variety of fascinating, kinky demonstrations representing every conceivable sexual taste. Goth music sets the tone for this den of exhibitionism.

In gentrified East Atlanta, a haven of artists and alternative types, check out Mary’s, which may be the coolest gay neighborhood bar in the city. This narrow bilevel space with mod furnishings and great music draws a more cerebral and artsy bunch than some of the city’s cruisier hangouts, and it’s equally popular among women and men. Other friendly neighborhood spots include cozy Tripps, which has some fun drag shows and some of the nicest barkeeps in town; Miss Q’s, a place to chit-chat, play pool and darts, and watch TV; racially diverse Model T, also with a notable drag following; and the long-running Buddies, which is just a casual no-nonsense bar with low attitude. Woof’s on Piedmont is Atlanta’s gay sports bar, with TV screens broadcasting live games and events and uniforms, banners, and similar-such memorabilia lining the walls. And Rico’s on Ponce is popular for its Sunday late-afternoon cookouts, held on a large deck with great views of the downtown skyline; downstairs is longtime locals’ drinkery, the Midtown Saloon.

If you should find yourself stuck in Newt Gingrich country (Cobb County, just northwest of the city), pop over to Le Buzz, in Marietta, which has karaoke and drag shows periodically, dancing on weekends, and free pool on Mondays. A newer option in the same area is the Breaking Point, a gay bar and grill welcoming a mixed-gender crowd and featuring drag and strip shows plus great dance music.

Of the many stylish coffeehouses in Atlanta, Aurora Coffee is a great option with a few gay-popular branches – these attractive, postmodern spaces have ample cushy seating. Close to Piedmont Park, Apres Diem offers inexpensive and tasty food, creative coffee drinks, and a full bar – it’s open till 2 a.m. on weekends and has an inviting patio. The gay and lesbian bookshop Outwrite has a charming and often-packed espresso bar with comfy chairs.

Atlanta, especially Midtown, also has dozens of restaurants where lesbians and gays mingle and nosh. Consider Red Chair Restaurant and Martini Lounge, a trendy smoke-free space with a very good contemporary American restaurant and a cool lounge with 10-foot-tall video screens. Two longtime favorites, owned by the same folks, are Einstein’s and Joe’s On Juniper, which are great either before hitting the bars or, on weekends, for brunch. Joe’s has a convivial bar with a long menu of martinis, bottled beers, and single-malts scotches. If you’re new in town, either of these neighboring establishments can be ideal for kicking off a night of bar-going.

Related: 72 Hours in Atlanta

Chicago’s Lakeview Neighborhood

Andrew Collins
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Chicago’s Lakeview Neighborhood

Lakeview, aka “Boystown,” has strong cachet among gays and lesbians

A world-class city with one of North America’s most dynamic gay populations, Chicago is also a metropolis of lively, distinctive neighborhoods. Two of these areas, both of them on the city’s North Side, have especially strong cachet among gays and lesbians. Lakeview, aka “Boystown,” hugs the Lake Michigan shoreline and contains the wealth of the city’s gay bars and restaurants. Andersonville, about 3 miles northwest, is smaller but still has a great variety of bars and eateries popular with the LGBT set.

Although most of Chicago’s accommodations are downtown (15 to 20 minutes south by cab or a bit longer via public transportation), Lakeview does have a handful of reasonably priced, gay-friendly lodging options. If you’re planning a good chunk of your time in Lakeview (and Andersonville, which has no hotels but is relatively nearby), consider one of these properties, which generally have more reasonable rates (and much less expensive parking) than comparable hotels downtown.

These include the three properties that make up the Neighborhood Inns group, a collection of charming, intimate boutique hotels in the heart of Lakeview. City Suites sits along busy Belmont Avenue, closest to the dining and club action, while the more romantic Majestic and Willows hotels are set along peaceful residential streets a few blocks from the bars. The gay-friendly Best Western Hawthorne Terrace is a reasonably priced little gem right in the heart of Lakeview, a short walk from the beach on Lake Michigan. Personal service, free Wi-Fi, in-room refrigerators and microwaves, and pleasant furnishings make this 59-unit property a winner.

Lakeview is one of the city’s best neighborhoods for dining. Jack’s on Halsted mixes international ingredients and recipes to create such memorable treats as grilled lemongrass-crusted salmon, and day scallops with mushroom-parmesan risotto and white-truffle oil. Head to the Pie Hole Pizzeria for outstanding pies (try the Greek version, with spinach, gyro meat, tomatoes, red onions, black olives, and feta). In the western reaches of the neighborhood, stop by Harmony Grill for creative comfort food, including fantastic mac and cheese and decadent “blondie” sundaes – it’s attached to the happening music club, Schuba’s Tavern.

Matsuya serves excellent sushi and Japanese fare, including such knock-out starters as deep-fried chicken wings and whitefish with smelt roe. Although many imitators have opened nearby, Mia Francesca remains the best place in the neighborhood for sophisticated but simple Northern Italian fare. You could survive solely on the flaky, freshly baked cinnamon rolls that accompany every meal at the hallowed Swedish diner Ann Sather, which has several gay-popular locations.

Those seeking healthy food should head for the Chicago Diner, which specializes in creative vegan and vegetarian fare and serves delicious baked goods. An attractive little Thai restaurant where the rice and noodle dishes are delicious and cheap, Joy’s Noodles serves a terrific ginger chicken with a fragrant bean sauce. If you’re a java junkie, keep in mind that the cozy Lakeview outpost of the Caribou Coffee chain is known locally as “Cariboy” and “Queeribou” – that should tell you all you need to know about the crowd.

Boystown is the heart of the city’s gay-male nightlife scene. The yuppie bar Roscoe’s is practically a Chicago institution, fun for dancing and cruising any night of the week. A guy guzzling Bud longnecks and another sipping cosmos can feel right at home together at Cocktail, an intimate storefront bar where friends often meet up before heading out to larger clubs. Chicago’s classic stand-and-model video bar, SideTrack has plenty of rooms for mingling. Hydrate is one of the hippest gay bars in town, great for after-work cocktails or late-night dancing and cruising.

A swank, smoke-free lounge known for its colorful cocktails and slick crowd, Minibar opened somewhat recently and has become a favorite after-work spot. A circuit-boy favorite on weekends, Circuit pulses with a feverish late-night dance crowd even at midweek, when Latin nights are a hit. The stylish Berlin disco draws a decidedly funkier and more alternative crowd than most of the preppy haunts in Lakeview. Nearby Spin is an eclectic gay club with an all-ages crowd and fun dance music. Charlie’s brings in fans of country-western music, while the Gentry on Halsted is a Boystown branch of downtown’s popular piano bar, favored for happy hour and later for live cabaret. Leather-and-Levi’s types cruise the Cell Block. Steamworks Chicago is a popular, clean, well-run sauna – it’s one of the nicest such facilities in the country.

You can continue your clubbing in funky Andersonville, which is the heart of the city’s lesbian scene but also home to a few men’s (mostly hard-core) leather bars, such as the Chicago Eagle, which is attached to a bathhouse and decorated like a motorcycle garage.

Women and their friends flock to Star Gaze, the neighborhood’s top lesbian club, which serves dinner and also has DJs on weekends, lesbian comedy and live-music nights, and a convivial beer garden. Atmosphere is a lively dance bar and lounge with a mixed gay male and lesbian crowd. And Andersonville is also home to a branch of the gay-oriented franchise, Hamburger Mary’s, a dapper two-level space that’s popular both as a gay bar and a fine place to eat. Stop by on Wednesdays nights for “Mary-Oke” karaoke fun, perhaps after feasting on a Barbra-Q-Bacon cheeseburger with cheddar, Jack cheese, and a tangy-smoky sauce.

One of the most talked-about new eateries in the area, Anteprima turns out superb modern Italian fare and has a warm dining room with pressed-tin ceilings and a shaded patio in back. Don’t pass up the grilled quail marinated in honey with balsamic vinegar and pancetta. A lively and atmospheric bistro with a decidedly queer following, Tomboy serves tempting fare like pan-seared duck with crimini mushrooms and a port glaze. T’s is a friendly, gay-popular restaurant and bar – it’s a favorite lesbian date spot, known for healthful American food.

Taste of Heaven Bakery is a great pick for delectable breakfasts and lunches, plus fresh-baked snacks throughout the day – the fried-egg sandwiches and peaches-and-cream French toast are favorites in the morning. Another wonderful spot to satisfy your sugar fix is Sweet Occasions, which serves some of the thickest and richest ice cream in the city, plus fantastic cupcakes, cherry cobbler, and homemade fudge. It’s hard not to love this old-fashioned parlor with ice-cream sundaes named for the seven deadly sins. The “Lust” (a chipotle brownie topped with cinnamon ice cream, hot fudge, whipped cream, and red hots) may leave you lusting for another trip to these two charming Chicago neighborhoods.

Related: Chicago

9 Things to Do in Philadelphia

Andrew Collins
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9 Things to Do in Philadelphia

The “City of Brotherly Love” makes is ideal for a summertime visit

No city in the United States played a more critical role in the nation’s founding than Philadelphia, and this progressive metropolis of about 1.5 million people has also been a pioneer in gay and lesbian rights. The Philadelphia Lesbian and Gay Task Force, formed in 1978, guided passage of the 1982 Philadelphia Fair Practices Act, one of the country’s earliest gay civil rights measures, and countless other gay-positive laws and policies have been passed or implemented since then. Additionally, the city’s office of tourism was one of the first to enthusiastically court gay and lesbian visitors. But apart from a warm welcome, what else about the “City of Brotherly Love” makes it ideal for a summertime visit?

Here’s a list of just a few notable things to see or do, chronicled in no particular order, that make Philadelphia so appealing:

1. Rittenhouse Square Park
City-planning guru Jane Jacobs called this tiny patch of paradise the most successful urban park in the United States; indeed, Rittenhouse Square is picturesque, socially diverse, highly safe, and largely unsullied by post-World War II architecture. Off the Square’s southeast corner is the prestigious Curtis Institute of Music, where Samuel Barber, Leonard Bernstein, and Ned Rorem studied, as well as the Philadelphia Art Alliance, which presents outstanding exhibits and art shows.

The square is also the site of the gay-friendly Rittenhouse Hotel, a sumptuous 98-room property that hosted the cast of the movie Philadelphia during filming. Rooms here are downright cavernous, averaging more than 500 square feet, and all have large windows framing the park or the city’s dramatic skyline. A short walk from the square, romantic Astral Plane has been a favorite gay-date restaurant since it opened in 1973 (it’s also drawn such fab celebs as Bette Midler, Liza Minnelli, Barry Manilow, and Tommy Tune). From the eclectic menu you might choose slow-roasted pork shank with asiago potatoes, or grilled scallops with lemongrass-and-ginger butter. It’s the perfect spot for a special dinner.

2. Clubbing in the Gayborhood
The city’s compact gay district, nicknamed the Gayborhood, contains the bulk of the Philadelphia’s gay bars as well as quite a few gay-popular shops, restaurants, and hotels. It’s right in the center of downtown, about as convenient to attractions, transportation, and entertainment as any gay neighborhood in America. Highlights include the city’s premier lesbian club, Sisters, a three-floor establishment with a restaurant and disco, and long-running Woody’s, a youthful video bar that pulls in a mostly male, somewhat cruisy, stand-and-model crowd. The ultra-swank Bump Lounge offers a more cosmopolitan ambience and is a great place to chat with friends, sip martinis, and dine on fine contemporary cuisine. Serious revelers head to Pure, the city’s top gay warehouse disco. Tavern on Camac is a charming gay piano bar, with a cozy restaurant in the basement. Other friendly options in the neighborhood include Uncles, popular with players on Philly’s lesbian and gay softball teams; 12th Air Command, a cavernous cruise bar with fun drag shows and dance parties; and the Venture Inn, the oldest gay bar in town, set in a historic tavern.

There are plenty of places to stay nearby. Particularly charming and well-priced, the gay-owned Alexander Inn is a fine boutique hotel right in the center of the action. The 48 rooms have a contemporary look with sleek furnishings and muted tones – other bonuses include satellite TV, Wi-Fi, and Continental breakfast buffet. Practically across from Woody’s, the Holiday Inn Express Midtown has well-kept rooms and reasonable prices. Another excellent choice that’s just steps from gay nightlife is the upscale Doubletree Philadelphia, a handsome, contemporary high-rise whose rooms afford superb city views. The hotel is a block away from the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, a magnificent 5-year-old space designed by seminal architect Rafael Vinoly.

3. Brunch at the White Dog
There’s nothing more relaxing on a sunny weekend morning or afternoon than enjoying brunch at a lively restaurant with great food and, ideally, some outside seating. Near the campus of the University of Pennsylvania, the gay-popular White Dog Cafe fits the bill perfectly. This bric-a-brac-filled eatery set in three adjacent Victorian town houses serves such delicious brunch fare as lemon-mascarpone pancakes with raspberry-maple syrup, and black-pepper-seared organic beef salad with crumbled blue cheese and balsamic vinaigrette. Also keep in mind that Astral Plane restaurant, mentioned above, serves a terrific brunch on Sundays.

4. Cheesesteaks at Geno’s or Pat’s
It may sound a bit cliched to search out a cheesesteak in this city that’s famous for them. But you’re here – and you may as well have a bite of Philadelphia’s quintessential treat. Many connoisseurs favor two neighboring joints a bit south of downtown, Geno’s and Pat’s (of course, plenty of ardent critics deride these two places as tourist traps and prefer other holes-in-the-wall around town). Pat’s is said to have invented this delicacy in 1930 – the restaurant serves ’em slathered with Cheez Whiz and fried onions, and the steak is finely chopped. Across the street at Geno’s, the steaks are not shredded, and instead of Cheez Whiz, they come topped with provolone. Which one is better? You be the judge.

5. The Philadelphia Museum of Art
One of the nation’s most esteemed art institutions, the Philadelphia Museum of Art sits within a dramatic Greek Revival building amid 10 landscaped acres. Standouts in the permanent collection include contemporary masterpieces by Picasso, Braque, and Matisse as well as works by a number of post-World War II artists. The outstanding Marcel Duchamp collection includes renditions of his Nude Descending a Staircase (The “nude,” people often overlook, is male). Check out the fine collection of photos and paintings by gay artist Thomas Eakins of young, virile men crewing and boating on the nearby Schuylkill River. There’s also an excellent display on Shaker furniture.

And that’s just scratching the surface. The museum is adjacent to lushly landscaped Fairmount Park, which straddles the Schuylkill River and comprises nearly 9,000 acres of picturesque gardens, walkways, and biking and bridle paths, plus about a dozen historic (mostly Colonial) mansions, which are open to the public.

6. Reading Terminal Market
For a century, the more than 80 stalls at the cavernous Reading Terminal Market have sold tantalizing, market-fresh foods, ranging from local produce to international dishes from around the world. There are too many great dining options to mention, but try not to miss the regional Mexican fare at 12th Street Cantina, the deli items at Salumeria, Amish treats at Beiler’s Bakery, ice cream at Bassetts, the Pennsylvania Dutch breakfasts at Dutch Eating Place, Italian hoagies at Carmen’s, and heavenly mac-and-cheese at Delilah’s. But wherever you end up eating, you won’t go wrong – around every corner you’ll see, smell, and have the chance to taste delicious food.

Related: A Gay Traveler’s Guide to Amsterdam

7. Independence National Historic Park
Even if you’re not a big history buff, you can’t visit Philadelphia and not soak up at least a whiff or two of the city’s amazingly rich heritage. The Old City neighborhood contains the bulk of the pre-1800s attractions, most them centered around Independence National Historical Park, which celebrates the very birth of our nation. Most famous is the Liberty Bell Pavilion, site of America’s beloved and cracked 2,000-pound bell. Although commonly thought to have played a significant role in Colonial history, the Liberty Bell actually rose to prominence during the 1830s as a symbol of the movement to abolish slavery.

Nearby Independence Hall is where the Second Continental Congress met in 1775, the Declaration of Independence was adopted in 1776, the Articles of Confederation were signed in 1778, and the Constitution was adopted in 1787. It was also the site of the city’s first major civil rights demonstrations (which included the concerns of lesbians and gays). The list of important sights within the park goes on and on – you could easily spend a full day here.

8. Giovanni’s Room
In an age when independent bookstores are struggling to keep their doors open, this wonderful LGBT bookstore that’s been going strong since 1973 is a true marvel. The homey two-floor shop on the edge of the Gayborhood has hundreds of queer titles plus a wealth of feminist works. There are several community bulletin boards, a wide range of periodicals, and a handful of skin mags, too. The staff is extremely helpful and has a real knack for finding out-of-print, import, or hard-to-find titles.

9. Coffee Klatch
Arguably the gayest java joint in town, Village Coffee House anchors the Gayborhood, offering caffeine addicts a cozy interior space as well as a charming enclosed patio that overlooks a neighborhood garden. Here you can sip specialty drinks (made with Fair Trade coffee beans), ogle cute patrons, and nosh on cookies, cheesecake, and tasty sandwiches.

A short walk away, the gay-friendly cafe More Than Just Ice Cream has been a fixture in the ‘hood for years, serving up what some insist is the best apple pie in world (sorry, Mom…). As the name suggests, you can also order ice cream (and delicious sundaes, specifically), but there are also fresh sandwiches, soul-warming soups, and plenty of coffee and tea drinks. It’s the best place in town to while away a rainy Sunday afternoon.

Related: Philly Escapes: New Hope, the Brandywine Valley, and Winterthur

Albuquerque’s Gay Scene

Andrew Collins
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Albuquerque’s Gay Scene

Recently revitalized Albuquerque is home to New Mexico’s only gay bars

New Mexico’s largest city, set dramatically at the base of the soaring Sandia Mountains, makes a great – and affordable – base for exploring the rest of the Land of Enchantment. Albuquerque lies just 60 miles south of Santa Fe and within an afternoon’s drive of countless Indian pueblos, beautiful hiking and biking spots, and challenging ski areas. The “Duke City” (named for the city’s founder, the Duke of Alburquerque – the first “r” was later dropped) enjoys a sunny, mild climate, and it’s home to New Mexico’s only gay bars as well as a handful of gay-owned B&Bs and restaurants.

Albuquerque’s once dull downtown has undergone an ambitious revitalization in recent years, with loads of new shops, restaurants, and bars along or near the main drag, Central Avenue between 2nd and 8th streets, and also along parallel Gold Avenue. From here, it’s a five-minute drive to historic Old Town, which was laid out in 1706 and contains Albuquerque’s earliest building, the San Felipe de Neri Church, which fronts the serene, tree-shaded Plaza. The wares for sale at the more than 200 crafts and art galleries and boutiques in the area run the gamut from fine to kitschy, and a few very good restaurants are nearby. For an offbeat experience, step inside the small but venomous American International Rattlesnake Museum, which contains the world’s largest assemblage of live rattlers.

Within a short stroll of Old Town you’ll find a handful of the city’s most prominent attractions, including the recently expanded Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, which houses an astounding collection of Spanish Colonial artifacts, plus traditional and contemporary regional art. Exhibits on geology, volcanoes, and dinosaurs await you across the street at the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science. Also check out the Albuquerque Aquarium, Rio Grande Zoo, and Rio Grande Botanic Garden. It’s just a short drive from Old Town to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center as well as the National Hispanic Cultural Center of New Mexico, both of which have exhibits, cafes, and performances related to their respective cultures.

Much of Albuquerque’s gay scene is focused in the retro-hip Nob Hill neighborhood, a short drive east of downtown along Historic Route 66 (Central Avenue), which glows with the neon signs of coffeehouses, bars, greasy-spoon diners, galleries, and boutiques selling everything from cool home-furnishings to campy gifts. Central Avenue fringes the southern edge of the University of New Mexico (UNM), whose noteworthy attractions include the Maxwell Museum of Anthropology and the University Art Museum.

The city sprawls a bit, and you need a car to venture out to some of the worthwhile outlying attractions. On the west side of town, visit Petroglyph National Monument to view some 25,000 rock drawings inscribed as far back as a thousand years ago along the 17-mile-long West Mesa escarpment. Drive east across town into the city’s lofty foothills for a chance to ride the Sandia Peak Aerial Tramway to the crest of the 10,600-foot Sandia Mountains. The 2.7-mile ride is the longest aerial tramway in the world. At the top are observation decks, hiking trails, a visitor’s center, and the High Finance Restaurant.

On the north side of Albuquerque, you’ll find the glamorous Sandia Casino resort, which in addition to extensive gaming areas contains one of the city’s best restaurants (Bien Shur, on the resort’s rooftop), a luxury hotel and spa, and a golf course of considerable acclaim.

The casino is close to Balloon Fiesta Park, home to New Mexico’s most famous festival, the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. This colorful hot-air balloon gathering – the world’s largest – takes place the first two weeks in October. At any time of year you can visit the park’s Anderson-Abruzzo International Balloon Museum. There are also a number of outfitters throughout Albuquerque offering hot-air balloon rides year-round; one of the most reliable is Rainbow Ryders.

Albuquerque’s already very good dining scene has improved dramatically just in the past few years. In the downtown area, don’t miss gay-popular Artichoke Cafe for first-rate Continental cooking in a romantic yet casual ambience. Thai Crystal is one of the city’s top Asian restaurants, while the cozy Gold Street Caffe serves up some of the best breakfasts around, plus light lunch and dinner fare, designer coffees, and delicious desserts. When in Old Town, book a table at elegant Ambrozia Cafe & Wine Bar, known for its quirky and inventive dishes, such as duck meatloaf with truffled cream corn, and lobster corn dogs with chipotle ketchup.

In Nob Hill, the swanky Zinc Wine Bar and Bistro serves a memorable Sunday jazz brunch and terrific French-inspired dinner fare – try the crispy duck-confit egg rolls or mango creme brulee. Next door, Crazy Fish serves tasty proof that it’s possible to find super-fresh and creatively rendered sushi right in the heart of the desert.

Talented chef Jennifer James is one of the leading new culinary stars of the Southwest, and you can sample her deftly prepared food at Graze, which specializes in affordable tapas-style small plates (she also owns the more formal Restaurant Jennifer James, a few miles north). Across the street, the upscale Gruet Steak House is run by the city’s acclaimed Gruet Winery, which produces some of the nation’s most respected champagne-style sparkling wines as well as commendable pinot noirs and chardonnays. Pre-clubbing gays and straights mix it up at sophisticated Martini Grille, which is lauded as much for its tasty American fare as for the fancy drinks served up in the schnazzy cocktail bar.

Hang out among UNM students and other local hipsters at Il Vicino, which serves out-of-this-world wood-fired pizzas and filling calzones, plus a nice array of leafy dinner-size salads. Try El Patio for some of the most authentic (and fiery) New Mexican cooking in town – be sure to sit on the tree-shaded patio. The no-frills Frontier Restaurant is a 24/7 institution famed for its breakfast burritos and heavenly cinnamon buns – it’s a real scene after the clubs close. Another must-do in Albuquerque is coffee and dessert at Flying Star, a bakery, restaurant, coffeehouse, and wine bar all rolled into one, with five locations around town, the gayest and coolest in Nob Hill and downtown.

Among Albuquerque’s six gay nightspots, Pulse draws the youngest and wildest bunch for cruising and dancing on the festive patio and compact but fierce dance floor. Fans of line-dancing and two-stepping head to sprawling Sidewinders Ranch, which is owned by the same folks as Sidewinders in Palm Springs. Low-keyed Exhale (formerly Renea’s) is the only lesbian bar in the state, although it pulls in plenty of guys, too. The expansive Albuquerque Mining Co. caters to a diverse crowd with its several bars, small dance area, and full volleyball court. The Albuquerque Social Club, a garden-variety video bar across the street from Pulse, attracts a fairly local following; guests are permitted in this private club but must purchase a “membership” (it’s good for one year). The parking lot at Foxes Lounge brims with beat-up pickup trucks, giving hints of the rugged, bearish, and horny guys inside. Exotic dancers are the main entertainment.

Related: Gay Palm Springs – An Iconic Desert Oasis

Although Albuquerque’s lodging landscape is dominated by generic chain hotels, you’ll find some distinctive historic properties and art-filled B&Bs, too. Among the latter, the beautifully restored Mauger Estate B&B sits within easy walking distance of downtown and Old Town. This gay-owned 1897 Queen Anne Victorian has an ornate redbrick exterior, period antiques, wallpapers, and fabrics.

Among larger mainstream properties, the historic Hotel Andaluz is the city’s true grand dame, opened in 1939 by Conrad Hilton (who honeymooned here with Zsa Zsa Gabor). It’s a stunning 10-story hotel in the heart of downtown. A few blocks west, the art deco Hotel Blue has simple but affordable rooms and a great location, making it one of the city’s best bargains.

Of the city’s chain properties, the 17-story Albuquerque Marriott hotel is a commendable, upscale choice with great views of the mountains. It’s close to two shopping malls and a short drive from gay nightlife. And a 20-minute drive north of Albuquerque in the town of Bernalillo, the posh Hyatt Regency Tamaya offers the most lavish accommodations in the region. Amenities at this 500-acre resort on the Santa Ana Pueblo include a world-class spa, horseback riding, tennis, golf, superb restaurants, and casino gaming. If you’re looking for sumptuous Palm Springs-style glamour in the laid-back Duke City, look no further than this stunning resort, the perfect place to celebrate an ultra-romantic Southwest getaway.

Anchorage: The Great Outdoors

Andrew Collins
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Anchorage: The Great Outdoors

Heart of Alaska’s relatively nascent but increasingly visible gay scene

Although it’s a bit less than a century old, Anchorage has developed into Alaska’s largest city, with a population of about 260,000. It’s also an excellent jumping-off point for countless adventures into the surrounding wilderness, from sea kayaking in Prince William Sound to hiking at Denali National Park to skiing at Alyeska Prince Resort in nearby Girdwood. But don’t overlook the city itself, a lively cultural hub with great shopping and dining and immediate access to the great outdoors. It’s also the heart of the state’s relatively nascent but increasingly visible gay scene.

Summer is the most popular time to come, when Anchorage abounds with flowers in private and public gardens as well as in window boxes and hanging baskets on porches. The sun rises around 4:30 in the morning and doesn’t set again until almost midnight, allowing for ample time each day to see the sights. But snow-sports fans and bargain-seekers might want to consider a winter visit, when hotel rates drop precipitously along with temperatures (expect January highs of about 20 to 25 degrees, versus 60- to 65-degree highs in July).

Related: Exploring Whistler

Anchorage won’t likely dazzle you – downtown was largely destroyed during a massive 1964 earthquake, and much of the reconstruction leaves a lot to be desired aesthetically. But it’s nonetheless a culturally rich city that’s home to the acclaimed Alaska Center for the Performing Arts (containing four different theaters), plus the Anchorage Symphony Orchestra, Anchorage Opera, and Alaska Chamber Singers.

The Anchorage Museum of History and Art is a world-class facility with an extensive trove of art and artifacts that trace the history of the region right up through the modern age. And at the Alaska Native Heritage Center, you can learn about the state’s myriad indigenous cultures through exhibits, classes and seminars, and performances.

Anchorage has long drawn outdoorsy types, as there are plenty of ways to get your blood pounding within city limits, and you’re also within driving distance of many great destinations for recreation and nature-watching. You can hike miles of trails at Chugach State Park, which fringes the city and extends for some 60 miles into the wilderness to the south, offering climbs to numerous peaks with elevations as high as 8,000 feet. Another great venue is Eagle River Nature Center, which offers hikes, naturalist programs, and bird-watching outings among many other activities that showcase the region’s abundant flora and fauna. And that’s just scratching the surface – don’t overlook the Alaska Zoo (an excellent place to see black bears up close) and the Alaska Botanical Gardens.

From a culinary standpoint, Anchorage has truly blossomed of late. There are certain foods that appear routinely on area menus, particularly reindeer (often in the form of sausage), elk, and other area game along with plenty of local seafood, from wild salmon to raw oysters to fresh berries. Kincaid Grill has been a pioneer in creative regional dining, as chef Al Levinsohn is constantly coming up with exciting new takes on Alaskan cuisine, from Kodiak scallops served with an Asian ponzu sauce and stir-fried veggies to roasted halibut Nicoise with olive tapenade. Another top choice is Sack’s, a slick contemporary dining room filled with modern art and serving such innovative creations as pan-seared New Zealand rack of lamb with blueberry-port demiglace. Grab a table along the sidewalk in good weather.

You’ll find sophisticated contemporary cuisine at Mick’s at the Inlet, including a knockout elk chop with goat cheese brioche pudding, Bearnaise sauce, and a berry relish, and roasted skatefish wing with blood oranges, fennel, chives, and olive oil. Drop by Cafe Savannah, a cool little tapas restaurant and wine bar with authentic Spanish cooking, for the likes of Portobello mushrooms stuffed with chorizo and Manchego cheese, and calamari with lemon-garlic aioli.

For a light meal and great people-watching and mingling, check out Glacier Brewhouse, which is known as much for its delicious house-brewed oatmeal stout and red-currant lambic beer as for tasty comfort food, such as seared ahi tuna and Thai chicken pizza. Gay-friendly Sassafras Coffeehouse is a fine spot for a light meal, coffee, and free wireless Internet – it’s right across the street from Nordstrom’s, by downtown’s 5th Avenue Mall. Try the turkey-bacon-avocado wrap.

Also a block from the mall, Cyrano’s Theatre Company comprises a performance space, arty bookstore, and petit cafe (called Twig’s) where you can grab a chicken-pecan salad or a cup of seafood chowder. The theater produces well-acted plays throughout the year and has a strong gay following. The queer nightlife scene is limited to a pair of bars on the edge of downtown, the lively and highly enjoyable Mad Myrna’s – which has campy cabaret shows, a dance floor, and a totally diverse following – and the somewhat more male-oriented and cruisy Raven, which is just around the corner.

There are several accommodations here that actively market to gay visitor. Just on the edge of downtown, the gay-owned Wildflower Inn contains three guest rooms with sophisticated but comfy furnishings, including a beautiful Mission-style bed in one and TV/VCRs in all of them (plus Wi-Fi throughout the house). It’s a great choice if you want to be within walking distance of museums, restaurants, and nightlife.

Another highly popular gay-owned property downtown is the Copper Whale Inn, an urbane late-1930s house (a rare survivor of the ’64 quake) with 15 rooms, most of them affording panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains and Cook Inlet. Of larger mainstream properties, one of the most luxurious is the Marriott Anchorage Downtown. This airy, contemporary high-rise offers dramatic views of the distant wilderness but also affords easy access to local sights and restaurants.

You can make a number of excellent day trips or short overnights from Anchorage. One of the best full-service resorts in Alaska is the luxurious Alyeska Resort, in the small village of Girdwood, a 45-minute drive south of the city. In winter, it’s the state’s top venue for downhill and cross-country skiing, snowboarding, snowmobiling, snow-tubing, and sledding. You can also take the aerial tram up to Mt. Alyeska, which has a restaurant at the top. In summer, you can book a tandem paragliding ride off the top of the mountain.

Another option is the two-and-a-half-hour drive to Seward, a slightly gritty old fishing town on the Kenai Peninsula. It’s gradually developed into a popular cruise port and leisure destination, thanks to its proximity to nature and also the Alaska Sealife Center, a marine-life research facility where visitors can observe the habitats of 2,000-pound Stellar sea lions, diving puffins, and dancing King crabs, among other creatures native to this region.

Just outside of Seward, you can visit Exit Glacier – in fact, you can practically drive your car right up to the edge, as it’s the most accessible glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park, which encompasses more than 900 square miles. From the parking area it’s a flat 15-minute hike to the foot of the glacier, where you can get some great up-close photographs of this hulking, slowly retreating mass of ice.

Related: Great National Park Vacations

Downtown Seward has a handful of restaurants and souvenir shops, mostly along 3rd and 4th avenues, and the community also has plenty of tour operators offering kayaking trips, flightseeing excursions, and sailing adventures.

Perhaps the most dramatic way to get around the region, especially if you’re a fan of vintage trains, is to book one of the popular sightseeing runs on the Alaska Railroad. There are extensive tours lasting from two to 10 days through the Denali National Park’s backcountry and up into the Arctic Circle, as well as easy day trips that depart Anchorage and take you through rugged Chugach Forest, past soaring glaciers and across wildflower-strewn meadows. Many of these trains have glass-dome roofs, allowing incredible photo ops. These colorful jaunts narrated by experienced naturalists offer the perfect chance to get a sense of America’s richest tract of scenic wilderness, the Alaskan countryside.

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