Eat and Play in Prague

Andrew Collins
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Eat and Play in Prague

Prague buzzes with gay-friendly cafes, bars, and shops

Among cities in Eastern Europe, few have developed a more spirited gay and lesbian following than the sophisticated, photogenic Czech Republic capital of Prague. This remarkably well-preserved and relatively compact city of 1.2 million straddles the Vltava River and buzzes with gay-friendly cafes, bars, and shops.

Prague’s greatest attributes are its rich history, evident in its beautifully preserved architecture, and its lively buzz – the mix of artists, tourists, ex-pats, students, and gays and lesbians who congregate at trendy hangouts throughout the city. In terms of high-end shopping, haute cuisine, and other more epicurean pursuits, this is a fairly average metropolis as European capitals go, but it’s also remarkably liberal and relatively affordable.

Prague is easy to get around on foot, its central neighborhoods safe and easily navigated. Furthermore, the city is served by an efficient and affordable network of trams and buses as well as an extensive metro (subway) system. With its ancient cathedrals, medieval architecture, and narrow and crooked streets, Old Town (Stare Mesto) is undeniably charming but also heavy-handedly commercial, especially near the inevitably jam-packed blocks around the Charles Bridge – here the streets overflow with shops selling jewelry, crafts, and souvenirs of varying quality. The bridge itself is a must, as it offers dramatic views of the city center in one direction, and imposing Prague Castle in the other. Try to go in the morning, before the crowds overrun it.

New Town (Nove Mesto) is adjacent to Old Town and is Prague’s true business center as well as a hub of international hotels, shops, and restaurants. Farther east but still within walking distance are the more residential Zizkov and Vinohrady neighborhoods. In the latter area, you’ll find the heart of Prague’s gay nightclub scene, but even during the day, Vinohrady is worth exploring. Its broad streets and handsome 19th-century buildings are a welcome relief from the tight and crowded lanes of the city center, and you’ll find plenty of eateries and shops along main drags like Vinohradska and Korunni. One good strategy for exploring is to take the metro east to the Flora stop (which is right beneath a rather fancy shopping mall called Palac Flora), and then stroll west back toward the city center (about a 30-minute walk without stops).

Prague has its share of noteworthy restaurants, but the city is characterized more by hearty and traditional Continental cuisine than by cutting-edge fare. You’ll find credible Italian, French, and Asian restaurants, and a wealth of atmospheric cafes, but it’s best to approach eating out in this city with somewhat tempered expectations.

Few Old Town eateries have a more obviously gay following than Cafe Cafe, a dapper, loud, fashionista-favored spot that’s centrally located but sufficiently far enough from the hordes near Charles Bridge. Grab a seat at one of the giant windows overlooking the sidewalk, and linger over a reasonably priced salad, sandwich, fruit tart, espresso, or cocktail. Not far from here, Cafe Jungmann is a charming and affordable sidewalk cafe on a quiet plaza behind the massive Bata shoe store on Wenceslas Square, the commercial heart of New Town. Dine at one of the wooden tables on the deck outside – you’ll find a typical selection of salads, panini sandwiches, and rich desserts.

Another noteworthy restaurant with a significant gay following is Celebrity Cafe, in trendy Vinohrady, close to several gay bars. In this wonderfully atmospheric warren of dining areas – decorated with leopard-print walls, gilt mirrors, and disco balls – you can dine on commendable food, from burgers and salads to steak tartare and creative pastas. Dinner is served until midnight, to the sounds of fun Euro-pop music humming in the background.

Although it’s not a particularly gay section of town, Nove Mesto between the river and Spalena Street (southeast of the National Theatre) is home to a number of excellent, trendy restaurants. A favorite is the Lemon Leaf, a cosmopolitan Thai-French eatery with soaring arched windows and vaulted ceilings. Inside, you’ll discover a stylish crowd dining on traditional green curries, satays, and more innovative fare, such as sliced duck salad with orange, avocados, and plum pesto sauce. Nearby Globe, a rambling cafe and bookstore with a second-story loft dining area, is usually flooded with American and British college students. It’s a popular place for a cocktail or coffee and some light snacks, and also a good place to surf the Web on your laptop (Wi-Fi costs a few dollars per hour).

Prague has at least 15 gay bars – the best of them are in Vinohrady, but you’ll find a few in Old Town and New Town as well. A note when ordering drinks: Prague will always be a beer drinker’s paradise (and it’s best to avoid most of the rather vinegary wines). Among brands, the ubiquitous Pilsner Urquell is certainly popular, but also look for Budwar (no relation to Budweiser) and Kozel.

Among the Old Town bars, check out Friends, a homey basement space with deep sofas, a friendly staff, and fun music – pop and sometimes even Latin tunes – into the wee hours. You’re likely to encounter a mixed bunch here – men and women, tourists and locals. A few blocks away, the offbeat Tingl Tangl is a restaurant on the main level (serving affordable Italian and Greek food), and a gay bar downstairs comprising a stage for drag cabaret, a dark little lounge, and a small dance floor.

Among the bars in town that draw a significant number of hustlers and their customers, Club Escape is the most centrally located (laws in the Czech Republic are vague about prostitution – it is rarely prosecuted by law enforcement, and the industry is well-organized). Patrons descend a flight of stairs to a spacious bar where strippers perform on a small stage, and exceedingly friendly young men constantly approach the mostly older potential customers. The other well-known hustler bar is Drake’s, a 24-hour club that’s most popular after-hours and has been around for years. Unfortunately, it has a steep cover charge and is in the Smichov neighborhood, a 10-minute cab ride from the city center.

There are a few notable bars in Vinohrady. Termix is loud and fun, with a tiny but also crowded dance floor and a chic, post-industrial decor. You’re apt to see a good-looking, youthful bunch here. It’s next to a very fashionable bistro, Bar and Books, which is a lovely option for pre-nightlife dinner. Just up the street, the tiny and cozy Saint is yet another gay hangout in a basement. In this two-room space about the size of a small apartment, you’ll typically find a festive mix of lesbians and gay guys.

A particularly offbeat and artsy venue is Club Stella, a dark and smoky place with a truly bohemian vibe – think alternative music, Oriental rugs, ornately carved mirrors, and a crowd that might remind you of New York City’s East Village or San Francisco’s Mission District. Probably the hottest gay nightspot in the neighborhood, if not the entire city, is Valentino, a multilevel club with several inviting bars and lounges that’s right next to the aforementioned Celebrity Cafe. You might start in the cozy bar facing the street, which has red-leather chairs and a long wooden bar, before moving to the louder and busier dance bar in the back. On weekends a large disco in the basement draws serious dancers and stylish young men and women for more hobnobbing.

Prague has relatively few gay-specific accommodations, but virtually all of the mainstream hotels in the city enthusiastically welcome LGBT visitors. Among these, few match the famed Radisson Blu Alcron Hotel in grandeur. The ornate 1932 hotel, whose rooms have just undergone a major makeover, has spacious accommodations with flat-screen TVs and free Wi-Fi. The hotel’s intimate Alcron restaurant serves some of the best seafood in the city, and the festive, art deco-inspired Be Bar is a fun place to catch live jazz and mingle with locals. Wenceslas Square is just down the block.

Near Prague Castle, the upscale, 50-room Aria hotel has a music theme, its floors each dedicated to a different genre, from opera to modern jazz. But the real draw here is the stylish furniture, and such in-room perks as DVD players and computers. Other noteworthy, gay-friendly boutique properties worth considering include Hotel Josef, a trendy lodging with a convenient Old Town location, and Aparthotel Angel, a complex of 75 contemporary rental apartments with fully equipped kitchens.

If you’re looking for a gay-owned, affordable accommodation in the heart of Vinohrady, look no further than Arco Guest House, a simple spot that’s a short tram ride away from the Namesti Miru metro station. The rooms and apartments (with kitchens), with attractive but basic contemporary light-wood furnishings, are more pleasant than the often dour budget hotels in the city center. The disadvantage is that you’re not within walking distance of major sightseeing attractions. But for the chance to stay in gay-popular Vinohrady, and to save a bit of money, Arco makes an excellent choice.

Related: Gay Prague – Spring in Prague Is Such an Experience

Gay Destinations on the Rise

Andrew Collins
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Gay Destinations on the Rise

A look at a dozen potential “family-friendly” destinations to watch

Amazing as it may sound today, famously gay-popular places like Austin, Mykonos, Rehoboth, and Prague haven’t always had much of a following with the LGBT community. Cities and resort communities change over the years, some becoming more fashionable with gay travelers, and others falling out of favor. In fact, there are big cities, alluring towns, and beautiful resorts all over the world that, while scarcely known to gay travelers at the moment, have the potential to develop into tomorrow’s next queer hot spots. Here’s a look at a dozen potential “family-friendly” destinations to watch, from formerly conservative cities like Nashville and Indianapolis, which are becoming increasingly progressive, to picturesque vacation spots like Tasmania and Mauritius that have only lately begun capturing the attention of the gay jet set.

Indianapolis, Indiana
America’s 13th-largest city, Indianapolis has been far less popular as a LGBT destination than most other major metropolises over the years, in part owing to its comparatively right-of-center political demeanor and bland reputation as more business-oriented than leisure-driven. Nevertheless, local gay business leaders and the city’s Indianapolis Convention and Visitors Association are currently working hard to change perceptions and promote the increasingly visible LGBT scene and publicize Indy’s playful side. You’ll find quite a few lively gay and lesbian bars here, along with a handful of historic gay-friendly B&Bs and some wonderfully appealing, artsy neighborhoods with an engaging mix of attractions and shopping.

Lisbon, Portugal
Relatively affordable compared with many other European nations, and a darling of food and wine connoisseurs, Portugal been generating plenty of buzz of late among sophisticated travelers, and its capital city, Lisbon, is steadily emerging from its somewhat conservative shell as a leading gay and lesbian getaway. The city now produces a guide for gay visitors, and the LGBT community has been credited with helping turn around the once grim Bairro Alto neighborhood, transforming it into one of Europe’s most charming gay villages.

Ljubljana, Slovenia
Neighboring Croatia gets more attention with gay travelers, at least among the nations that make up the former Yugoslavia, but romantic, beautifully preserved Slovenia and its capital city of Ljubljana (pronounced lyoo-blyah’-nah) are fast developing a pink fan base. Ljubljana looks and feels much the way Prague did before the latter became inundated with tourists and excessive commercialism. With its medieval castle, narrow streets, and ornate bridges, it’s a fine city for a strolling. You’ll also find a handful of gay bars and cafes, and, to the delight of cinema buffs, Ljubljana hosts an increasingly prestigious gay and lesbian film festival, which celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2014.

Mauritius and Reunion Island
These small islands off the coast of Africa, about 500 miles east of Madagascar, have lately become favorites with Euro jet-setters. Some say Mauritius has the potential to become another Ibiza or Mykonos, with pulsing gay discos beginning to spring up here and there.

This island with a population of about a million and a diverse cultural heritage (with English, French, Indian, and Chinese influences) is renowned for its spectacular white-sand beaches. About 120 miles to the southwest, the French island of Reunion (population 800,000) is a volcanic formation with magnificent mountain peaks rising to more than 10,000 feet and a nascent but fast-growing tourism industry. Together, the islands make for a stunning, remote hideaway, and they’re already drawing a number of gay visitors from South Africa, Australia, and Europe.

Mexico City, Mexico
With a metro population of nearly 20 million and one of North America’s most exciting cultural and arts scenes, there’s no question that vibrant – if in some ways chaotic and unpredictable – Mexico City has plenty of gay and lesbian residents. As a gay vacation destination, however, Mexico’s capital metropolis has yet to develop a major following. Its reputation is picking up, though, as more and more visitors return home to spread the word about the trendy dining scene, relatively affordable luxury hotels, cruisy gay nightlife, and huge Gay Pride parade held in late June each year. With its relative low cost and a wealth of direct flights from elsewhere in North America, look for Mexico City to become ever more popular among U.S. and Canadian travelers.

Nashville, Tennessee
Although it’s smack in the middle of America’s so-called Bible Belt, Nashville has become steadily more gay-friendly in recent years. The city has embraced progressive politics, environmentalism, and the arts with great gusto, and a handful of funky little neighborhoods around town (East Nashville, 12th Avenue South) abound with LGBT-popular coffeehouses, restaurants, and boutiques. For these reasons, plenty of “family” are moving to Nashville these days, in search of a slightly more intimate and better-planned alternative to such gay Southern mega-cities as Atlanta, Houston, and Dallas.

Nova Scotia, Canada
Although it’s just the second-smallest of Canada’s provinces, Nova Scotia and its historic capital city of Halifax offer plenty to see and do, including a handsomely preserved waterfront, exceptional theater and fine arts venues, and verdant parks and gardens. Elsewhere in the province are such popular draws as Lunenburg, a colonial seaport and shipbuilding center now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the charming fishing village of Peggy’s Cove. Gay-owned and gay-friendly B&Bs abound in the towns already mentioned as well as in such scenic communities as Annapolis Royal and Shelburne.

Punta del Este, Uruguay
Sometimes dubbed the St. Tropez of South America, the swanky beach and casino resort city of Punta del Este hugs the southern coast of Uruguay and has long been fashionable with the LGBT residents of neighboring countries like Brazil and Argentina.

As a gay resort, Punta del Este has loads of potential but is probably a few years from developing international LGBT cachet. Still, there’s a long and beautiful stretch of beach with a popular queer following (Chihuahua), and this town of 10,000 has a couple of gay bars and gay-popular hotels.

San Luis Obispo County, California
The legalization of gay marriage is but one reason scenic San Luis Obispo County is one of California’s best gay-friendly vacation secrets. This area with a charmed setting along the Pacific has one of the nation’s most exciting winemaking scenes (especially around the town of Paso Robles), and the largest community – San Luis Obispo – is a lively university town with dozens of superb restaurants and a fun, friendly gay scene. At the southern end of this county that’s midway along the coast between Los Angeles and San Francisco, you’ll find a number of gay-friendly resorts between the towns of Avila Beach and Pismo Beach.

Shanghai, China
The so-called “Paris of the East”, with a population of more than 13 million and a breathtaking skyline of countless postmodern skyscrapers, Shanghai is rapidly becoming Asia’s must-see destination for cutting-edge shopping, fashion, and the arts. Attitudes toward gay people are slowly but surely changing for the better – just in the past decade, the city has seen the opening of several gay bars, along with an extremely popular and attractive gay entertainment-hotel complex. As thousands of ex-pats from all over the world continue to visit and relocate to this exciting, dynamic city, the gay scene will surely explode over the next few years.

Tasmania, Australia
This rugged island state off the southeast coast of the Australian mainland used to have a somewhat conservative reputation, but the tides have turned in recent years. Many gays and lesbians have moved to this laid-back, stunningly beautiful land, known for its natural beauty (don’t miss Cradle Mountain or the Freycinet Coast). The island’s tourism office produces an extensive guide for LGBT travelers, and you’ll find a number of “family”-owned accommodations around this island that’s roughly the size of West Virginia and has a population of about a half-million.

Torremolinos, Spain
Spain already has its share of stunning gay vacation areas (Ibiza, Sitges), and in the sunny Andalucian region, yet another has lately begun to emerge: the picturesque beach town of Torremolinos. Numerous hip restaurants and bars have opened, especially in the La Nogalera neighborhood, and the town also has about a dozen resort hotels catering heavily to the LGBT crowd. Spain’s fabled Costa del Sol has long had a popular following with northern Europeans, and Torremolinos looks poised to develop into one of the continent’s top gay vacation hubs.

Chicago

Andrew Collins
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Chicago

Chicago’s gayest neighborhoods pulse with hip shops, chic lounges and clubs

America’s third-largest city, Chicago has become one of the top gay destinations in the country, known for its exceptional museums, restaurants, hotels, architecture, and performing arts. It was also host for the Gay Games in July 2006, a spectacular event in US gay history.

Even if you’re in town only for a short time, try to set aside at least an afternoon to visit a few key attractions in the Loop, the central business district that contains Chicago’s most noteworthy museums and architectural marvels, including the leviathan Marshall Field & Co. department store, the Chicago Architecture Foundation Shop and Tour Center (which gives excellent walking tours), and Grant Park. Don’t miss the superb Art Institute of Chicago, whose astonishingly comprehensive collection spans more than 40 centuries and includes the most impressive display of Impressionist and post-Impressionist works outside of the Louvre. Other Grant Park musts include the John G. Shedd Aquarium and the similarly humongous Field Museum of Natural History.

North of the Loop, you’ll find a collection of lively and eclectic neighborhoods – some rich with galleries and nightclubs, others known for shopping and fancy apartments and hotels. In River North, Michigan Avenue (aka the Magnificent Mile) compares with the finest American and European shopping districts. Still farther north you’ll find 1,200-acre Lincoln Park, which has several museums as well as the small but impressive Lincoln Park Zoo. To the west, Bucktown and Wicker Park are white-hot centers of avant-garde arts and offbeat dining and shopping.

Chicago’s gayest neighborhoods, Lakeview and Andersonville, lie well north of downtown and pulse with hip shops, see-and-be-seen restaurants, and chic lounges and clubs. In hopping Lakeview, Matsuya serves excellent sushi and Japanese fare, including such knock-out starters as deep-fried chicken wings and whitefish with smelt roe. Although many imitators have opened nearby, Mia Francesca remains the best place in the neighborhood for sophisticated but simple Northern Italian fare. HB is a cozy spot that features the creative down-home cookin’ of the Food Network’s much-loved “Hearty Boys,” Steve McDonagh and Dan Smith. X/O is a swanky newcomer that serves up a tantalizing three-course champagne brunch, plus such innovative creations as grilled short ribs with Vietnamese cabbage salad, and seared sea scallops with pumpkin dumplings. Moxie is a trendy place for tasty tapas, designer cocktails, and great people-watching – it draws a mix of the neighborhood’s gay and straight folks.

Chicago Gay Pride 2013

You could survive solely on the flaky, freshly baked cinnamon rolls that accompany every meal at the hallowed Swedish diner Ann Sather, which has several gay-popular locations. Athletes seeking healthy food should head for the Chicago Diner, which specializes in creative vegan and vegetarian fare and serves delicious baked goods. An attractive little Thai restaurant where the rice and noodle dishes are delicious and cheap, Joy’s Noodles serves a terrific ginger chicken with a fragrant bean sauce. If you’re a java junkie, keep in mind that the cozy Lakeview outpost of the Caribou Coffee chain is known locally as “Cari-boy” and “Queeribou” – that should tell you all you need to know about the crowd.

Related: Chicago’s Lakeview Neighborhood

Boys’ Town is the heart of the city’s gay-male nightlife scene. The guppie bar Roscoe’s is practically a Chicago institution, fun for dancing and cruising any night of the week. A guy guzzling Bud longnecks and another sipping cosmos can feel right at home together at Cocktail, an intimate storefront bar where friends often meet up before heading out to larger clubs. Chicago’s classic stand-and-model video bar, SideTrack has plenty of rooms for mingling. Hydrate is one of the hippest gay bars in town, great for after-work cocktails or late-night dancing and cruising. A swank, smoke-free lounge known for its colorful cocktails and slick crowd, Minibar is a favorite after-work spot. A circuit-boy favorite on weekends, Circuit pulses with a feverish late-night dance crowd even at midweek, when Latin nights are a hit. The stylish Berlin disco draws a decidedly funkier and more alternative crowd than most of the preppy haunts in Lakeview. Nearby Spin is an eclectic gay club with an all-ages crowd and fun dance music.

Charlie’s brings in fans of country-western music, while the Gentry on Halsted is a Boys’ Town branch of downtown’s popular piano bar. (The original is called Gentry on State, and if you think the trading is heavy at Chicago’s Commodities Exchange, check out the cologne-dipped suits milling about this dressy cabaret.) Leather-and-Levi’s types cruise the Cell Block. North of Boys’ Town you’ll find one of Chicago’s friendliest and most diverse bars, Big Chicks, which draws an eclectic mix of hipsters, artistes, and jocks – devotees flock here from all over the city to soak up its inviting atmosphere. Next door, the same owners run the fabulous and hip restaurant, Tweet, which is known for its festive brunch and for tasty organic fare. Another fun Uptown hangout is the Crew Bar, which draws sports fans (there are 16 televisions airing big games) and serves delicious food, too.

One of the granddaddies of Chicago clubs, the Jeffrey Pub anchors the South Shore African-American gay community. In the artsy, alternative Bucktown and Wicker Park neighborhoods, virtually all of the area’s smoky, hipster-infested bars draw a share of the lavender set, especially the Rainbo Club, a favorite of art students, rockers, and slackers. Cafe Absinthe draws a grunge-y bunch but ranks among Chicago’s most esteemed neighborhood eateries. Francophiles swear that Le Bouchon cooks up the most authentic French bistro fare this side of the Atlantic. For delicious Cuban and Latin American food, book a table at kicky and gay-popular Cafe Bolero. And head to hip del Toro for tasty, relatively affordable Spanish tapas in an snazzy space with Art Nouveau-inspired decor.

Funky Andersonville is the heart of the lesbian scene – as well as just being an all-around-cool neighborhood with a fast-emerging dining reputation. A lively and atmospheric bistro with a decidedly queer following, Tomboy serves tempting fare like pan-seared duck with crimini mushrooms and a port glaze. T’s is a friendly, gay-popular restaurant and bar – its Retro ’80s Women’s Night on Tuesdays is a hit. You could spend the whole night at Star Gaze, the neighborhood’s top lesbian club, which serves dinner and also has DJs on weekends, lesbian comedy and live-music nights, and a convivial beer garden. And there’s Atmosphere, a lively Andersonville dance bar and lounge with a mixed gay male and lesbian crowd.

The neighborhood also has a few men’s (mostly hard-core) leather bars, such as the Chicago Eagle, which is attached to a bathhouse and decorated like a motorcycle garage. If you have a place in your heart for fitted jocks and Tom of Finland drawings, don’t miss the city’s Leather Archives and Museum, which is packed with erotica, fashion, and fascinating memorabilia from various international leather contests.

Until recently, standard chain hotels dominated the lodging landscape in Chicago, but quite a few hip hotels have opened in the past several years, including two run by the gay-friendly Kimpton group: the French deco-inspired Hotel Monaco, and the stylish and musically themed Hotel Allegro. Another option that offers style and luxury plus a fun attitude is the Hard Rock Hotel, which is set inside the landmark 40-story Carbide and Carbon Building, a fashionable property that’s also home to the popular China Grill.

Up near Boys’ Town there are fewer lodging options, but an excellent resource is the gay-friendly Neighborhood Inns group, which runs a trio of boutique hotels with charming rooms and great locations. City Suites sits along busy Belmont Avenue, closest to the dining and club action, while the more romantic Majestic and Willows hotels are set along peaceful residential streets a few blocks from the action. The city also has a handful of great inns and B&Bs, including Villa Toscana, a Victorian style bed and breakfast located in the heart of Boystown.

Related: Chicago’s Lakeview Neighborhood

Manhattan’s Chelsea Neighborhood

Andrew Collins
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Manhattan’s Chelsea Neighborhood

Chelsea has arguably become New York’s hottest destination for gay visitors

As recently as the mid-1990s, relatively few visitors spent time in Chelsea, the neighborhood on Manhattan’s west side between Midtown and Greenwich Village. Today, however, Chelsea abounds with gay bars, cool restaurants, diverting shops, avant-garde galleries, and an increasing number of hotels. It’s become arguably the city’s hottest destination for gay visitors, and a wonderful neighborhood to spend a weekend or short vacation.

This part of the city was developed in the 1830s by clergyman Clement Clark Moore, author of “A Visit from St. Nicholas” (“Twas the night before Christmas…”), whose family owned most of the area. Well into the mid-20th century, Chelsea was a drab, lower-income neighborhood where workers at nearby garment factories and river docks lived in cheap boardinghouses and rickety, airless tenements. But as gays began moving here in the ’70s and ’80s, gentrification gradually took hold. And in recent years, the neighborhood has developed cachet among both residents and visitors as one of the trendiest areas in the city as well as one of the nation’s most dynamic gay communities.

Chelsea comprises roughly the blocks between 5th Avenue and the Hudson River, with 14th Street forming the neighborhood’s southern boundary. Most locals consider 23rd Street to be its northern edge, but others argue the border extends as far north as 28th or even 32nd Street. For all practical purposes – particularly in terms of retail, dining, and clubbing – you’ll find the most intriguing businesses between 14th and 23rd streets. And where gay-popular establishments are concerned, the main drag is 8th Avenue, with 7th Avenue a close runner-up. Additionally, 9th and 10th avenues have witnessed the tide of gentrification in recent years, particularly as top galleries have moved into the western reaches of Chelsea.

The neighborhood offers little in the way of attractions, unless, of course, you count shopping as a form of sightseeing. If you wander along West 20th through West 27th streets in the block west of 10th Avenue, you’ll find storefront after storefront of cutting-edge art galleries. Fans of dance should note two important neighborhood institutions: the art deco Joyce Theater, which hosts high-quality dance companies throughout the year, and the dramatic Dance Theater Workshop, around the corner, which also presents acclaimed concerts throughout the year. The neighborhood draws plenty of foodies to its Chelsea Market, a bustling concourse of gourmet food stalls in which you’ll find tantalizing Thai food, savory soups, fine wines, heavenly baked goods, and lots more.

In fact, restaurants have become one of the neighborhood’s leading draws. There are the obvious bastions of gay social life, such as Viceroy and Food Bar for rather standard American chow, and campy VYNL, which is known for its eclectic Asian and international dishes, plus outstanding martinis. Gym buffs on high-protein diets favor Better Burger, with its menu of lean, char-grilled burgers and fresh-squeezed juices. Other hot spots include the funky Thai restaurant Room Service, known for such kicky creations as Thai-spicy tuna salad and chile-rubbed salmon; and Suenos, which serves some of the most innovative regional Mexican fare in the city – be sure to try the duck-confit quesadillas with poached pears and ancho chiles.

For weekend brunch, don’t miss East of Eighth, which turns out first-rate contemporary American food and offers lively cabaret in the evenings. Few spots are more popular at lunchtime than Dish, a glorified diner of sorts, which is also known for its relaxing Saturday and Sunday brunch. Snackers and noshers will find plenty of toothsome options, including F&B Gudtfood for gourmet hot dogs and European-style street food, Murray’s for some of the city’s finest bagels, and Pinkberry, for the mysterious yogurt-esque frozen-dessert snacks that have taken the city by storm.

On the west side of the neighborhood, you can count on the Red Cat for a terrific meal of creative American fare, such as a fantastic paprika-roasted cod with spicy escarole and an anchovy-almond sauce. At cozy Tia Pol, choose from a long list of outstanding Spanish tapas, while the much-hyped Craftsteak is your go-to for superb cuts of beef – it’s part of Tom Colicchio’s (of TV’s Top Chef) growing restaurant empire.

Chelsea has become the epicenter of gay nightlife in New York City (although it’s fair to say that the Hells Kitchen and East Village neighborhoods provide plenty of competition). There are the trendy spots, such as G Lounge, a sea of coiffed and smartly dressed men hobnobbing around a central bar or relaxing in mod lounge chairs; and the long-running Splash, a two-floor temple of chic gay clubbing known for its go-go dancers and throbbing music. Quirky Barracuda cultivates a mixed arty and cruisy bunch, while the bilevel Eagle caters to the usual set of bears, leather men, and ardent porn enthusiasts (old-fashioned blue movies play on the video screens).

Rawhide is an old-school neighborhood bar with an age-diverse following, and the friendly Gym Sportbar has become the darling of the post-workout crowd. Locals hangouts like View Bar and XES can seem empty or bustling depending on the night, and a couple of pulsing warehouse discos, Rush and Stereo, round out the scene.

Chelsea has relatively few hotel rooms compared with other key Manhattan neighborhoods, but it’s a 10- to 20-minute walk (or a short cab or subway ride) from the scads of hotels in Midtown. What you will find in Chelsea, however, are several properties with reasonable rates, most catering heavily to the gay market. The modern and rather basic Chelsea Savoy Hotel has a terrific location at the corner of West 23rd Street and 7th Avenue, and rooms here can run as low as $150 nightly.

Among the big chains, there’s a Four Points by Sheraton Manhattan Chelsea on West 25th Street, and the Hampton Inn Chelsea on West 24th Street. Both of these are clean, well-managed, and affordable.

And, just a short walk east of Chelsea in a similarly vibrant area, you might consider the uber-cool W New York Union Square, a swank stunner that occupies the 1911 beaux-arts Guardian Life building and contains Todd English’s bustling Olives restaurant and Rande Gerber’s see-and-be-seen Underbar. Or check into Ian Schrager’s luxuriously re-imagined Gramercy Park Hotel, a glam boutique hotel overlooking the elegant park of the same name.

Among smaller, gay-oriented properties, a reliable pick is the Chelsea Pines Inn, which occupies a charming 1850s town house in the heart of the neighborhood. Rooms with semiprivate bath (sink and shower are in your room, but the toilet is shared with several other rooms on same floor) start at $140, while rooms with private baths begin at $175.

Related: Three Great New York Neighborhoods

Exploring Hong Kong

Andrew Collins
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Exploring Hong Kong

Hong Kong has a fairly visible and well-organized gay community

Comprising an archipelago of mountainous islands and a similarly precipitous peninsula extending from the China mainland, Hong Kong is one of the world’s most spectacularly beautiful cities. It’s also one of the Pacific Rim’s hottest destinations for gays and lesbians, fans of fashion and gourmet dining, freewheeling investors and entrepreneurs, and devotees of luxury hotels. Nearly all of the world’s leading hotel chains have outposts in this famous trading port at the mouth of the Pearl River Delta.

From 1842 through 1997, Hong Kong was a British colony. Since the United Kingdom handed this prosperous territory back to China, Hong Kong has continued to enjoy great popularity as a center of business and trade as well as retaining its status as a major tourist destination.

Now one of two “special administrative regions” of China (the other being the nearby island of Macau, which until 1999 had been a colony of Portugal), Hong Kong nevertheless maintains its own distinct identity. This territory of about 7 million people has its own currency, law enforcement, legal system, and customs and immigration policies. Automobile traffic follows British road rules, and even though Hong Kong is technically part of China, North American and British citizens do not require visas for entry, as they do when they cross the border into China.

Although the overwhelming majority of Hong Kong residents are of Chinese descent, visitors to Hong Kong will encounter a large population of Westerners – not just Brits but also other Europeans, as well as Americans and Australians. In the major commercial and tourism-driven neighborhoods, most signs and menus are written in English and Cantonese (the territory’s official language), and most residents and employees speak at least some English. In fact, there are parts of Hong Kong that appear so heavily influenced by the West that, for better or for worse, you may feel as though you’re not in Asia at all.

In comparison with other Asian cities, Hong Kong has a fairly visible and well-organized gay community, with an LGBT social and cultural scene that has grown steadily in recent years. This is in part because the city is such an international business and leisure hub, but also because attitudes toward gays and lesbians are steadily becoming more favorable throughout the Pacific Rim. Still, the traditional attitudes of China and even old-school Britain largely prevail. In this sense, gays and lesbians in Hong Kong tend to be more discreet and, in many cases, closeted, than in most major Western cities.

For visitors, shopping and dining rank among the favorite local pastimes. Hong Kong isn’t quite the bargain retail destination it was years ago, but the territory is still rife with both sleek upscale shopping centers and quirky, discount and specialty markets. It’s quite fascinating to stroll through the Flower Market in Kowloon, or to explore the clothing stalls of Stanley Market on the south side of Hong Kong Island.

In terms of sightseeing, there’s quite a lot to see and do, and Hong Kong is an easy place to navigate (by cheap and efficient subway lines, ferry boats, taxis, and buses). Hong Kong Island is laced with sculpted bays and beautiful beaches, some of them with gay followings – notably Gold Coast Beach, off Castle Peak Road, and Middle Bay, off South Bay Road. No visit here is complete without taking the tram to Victoria Peak, which rises nearly 2,000 feet above the city center and on clear days affords panoramic views of the territory and surrounding waters. Also set aside time to visit the massive Tian Tan Buddha statue, the Hong Kong Heritage Museum, and – if you’re a fan of amusement parks – Hong Kong’s own giddy outpost of Disneyland.

Just keep in mind Hong Kong’s sometimes sultry, semi-tropical climate when planning a visit. The territory can be wet and even stormy. Fall through winter is the best time to visit, as temperatures run from the 60s to the 70s, and the air is drier and fresher. From about May through early September, however, the region becomes inundated by excruciatingly humid and wet weather, with highs near 90 degrees and day after day of heavy rainfall.

Hong Kong dangles off the tip of southeastern China like a barnacle. Most of the territory is made up of the Kowloon Peninsula and two major islands just to the south, Hong Kong Island and Lantau Island (home to the major international airport). Visitors focus most of their time in Hong Kong’s city proper, which consists of the northern tip of Hong Kong Island and the southern tip of Kowloon. Neighborhoods of significance to gay visitors include the fast-paced, if somewhat tawdry, neon-lit streets of Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon, where you’ll find a number of gay saunas and karaoke bars; and the neighboring Lan Kwai Fong and Soho sections of Hong Kong Island’s city center (an area commonly referred to as “Central” by locals).

The Central district is the part of Hong Kong that’s depicted most often on postcards – its gleaming skyscrapers fringe the harbor front and are set against the backdrop of lush Victoria Peak. It’s here that you’ll find most of the city’s top hotels and restaurants. Lan Kwai Fong and Soho are on the western side of Central and can be easily reached from most hotels on foot or by quick and inexpensive cab rides. This hip and trendy area abounds with gay and gay-friendly bars, discos, tapas restaurants, late-night cafes, fashion boutiques, and the like. It’s a hilly area laced with narrow streets, but it’s perfectly safe for exploring even if you’re unsure exactly where to go (if in doubt, take a cab to the intersection of Hollywood Road and Wyndham Street, the heart of Soho).

The neighborhood’s top gay club is Propaganda, which is hidden down an alley just off a stairwell below Hollywood Road. This is a hot spot for tourists and moneyed locals who don’t mind the exorbitant cover charge and steep drink prices. Also popular for late-night clubbing is Drop, which pulls in a mostly under-30 crowd. The gay video lounge Volume is a must on the gay nightlife circuit. It’s a sleek, modern space with colorful and cushy lounge seating, and DJs spin some of the best music in the city. Another good bet is Works, whose black walls and dim lighting feel a bit dated. Nevertheless, this is actually a quite trendy guy’s hangout. Other worthwhile gay establishments include 2M Bar, an intimate gay and lesbian cocktail bar just down the hill from Hollywood Road, and New Wally Matt Lounge, a long-running pub in Kowloon just a block off Nathan Road.

Club 97 is a snazzy mixed gay/straight spot with more of a “family” following early in the evening, especially on Fridays, for happy hour. Straight and gay hipsters also mingle at Solas, a sleek lounge, and at Finds, an ultra-trendy spot in SoHo with outstanding Asian-cum-Scandinavian food and a smartly dressed crowd.

Hotels in Hong Kong can be expensive, as many of the high-end properties cater largely to free-spending business travelers, but if you’re willing to spend a few hundred dollars per night, you’ll find some astoundingly fabulous properties. Leading the pack is the magnificent Mandarin Oriental, whose plush rooms and suites are outfitted with every imaginable creature comfort. Try to book an upper floor with a harbor view, although those facing the city’s colorful skyscrapers are perfectly wonderful. Restaurants such as Pierre (helmed by 3-star Michelin chef Pierre Gagnaire) and the Mandarin Grill attract foodies, while scenesters couldn’t possibly visit Hong Kong without stopping for a martini at the swank M Bar, a 25th-floor lounge with incomparable skyline vistas.

The nearby Ritz-Carlton is a clubby, low-keyed, and intimate property with just 216 rooms and a cloistered, serene pool and sundeck with great views of downtown skyscrapers. Enjoy the lavish high tea presented daily in the swank cafe just off the lobby, or plan a dinner here at Toscana, which serves superb contemporary Italian food.

On the east edge of Central Hong Kong, in the Wan Chai district, the Grand Hyatt is distinct for its magnificent setting on the edge of the harbor. There are few tall buildings around it, which means that rooms enjoy knockout views of the water and Kowloon as well as the city center. This is a star in the gay-popular Hyatt brand, with some of the most lavishly decorated rooms imaginable. Don’t miss the 11th-floor outdoor pool, which is the city’s largest – it adjoins the beautiful Plateau Spa, which is an exceptional choice if you’re seeking a spa treatment while in town. On the Kowloon side, top upscale hotels include The Peninsula, a grand dame dating from the 1930s, and the Island Shangra-La, a regal, centrally located beauty with fine views of the harbor and several excellent restaurants.

Unfortunately, it can be challenging to find truly memorable accommodations for under $200 a night here, and Hong Kong is without any gay-oriented guest houses or B&Bs. In Kowloon, the Eaton Hotel is a perfectly respectable option – it’s affordable and centrally located, right by the Temple Street Night Market and close to gay nightlife.

Related: Exploring Beijing and Shanghai

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