Chicago’s Lakeview Neighborhood

Andrew Collins
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Chicago’s Lakeview Neighborhood

Lakeview, aka “Boystown,” has strong cachet among gays and lesbians

A world-class city with one of North America’s most dynamic gay populations, Chicago is also a metropolis of lively, distinctive neighborhoods. Two of these areas, both of them on the city’s North Side, have especially strong cachet among gays and lesbians. Lakeview, aka “Boystown,” hugs the Lake Michigan shoreline and contains the wealth of the city’s gay bars and restaurants. Andersonville, about 3 miles northwest, is smaller but still has a great variety of bars and eateries popular with the LGBT set.

Although most of Chicago’s accommodations are downtown (15 to 20 minutes south by cab or a bit longer via public transportation), Lakeview does have a handful of reasonably priced, gay-friendly lodging options. If you’re planning a good chunk of your time in Lakeview (and Andersonville, which has no hotels but is relatively nearby), consider one of these properties, which generally have more reasonable rates (and much less expensive parking) than comparable hotels downtown.

These include the three properties that make up the Neighborhood Inns group, a collection of charming, intimate boutique hotels in the heart of Lakeview. City Suites sits along busy Belmont Avenue, closest to the dining and club action, while the more romantic Majestic and Willows hotels are set along peaceful residential streets a few blocks from the bars. The gay-friendly Best Western Hawthorne Terrace is a reasonably priced little gem right in the heart of Lakeview, a short walk from the beach on Lake Michigan. Personal service, free Wi-Fi, in-room refrigerators and microwaves, and pleasant furnishings make this 59-unit property a winner.

Lakeview is one of the city’s best neighborhoods for dining. Jack’s on Halsted mixes international ingredients and recipes to create such memorable treats as grilled lemongrass-crusted salmon, and day scallops with mushroom-parmesan risotto and white-truffle oil. Head to the Pie Hole Pizzeria for outstanding pies (try the Greek version, with spinach, gyro meat, tomatoes, red onions, black olives, and feta). In the western reaches of the neighborhood, stop by Harmony Grill for creative comfort food, including fantastic mac and cheese and decadent “blondie” sundaes – it’s attached to the happening music club, Schuba’s Tavern.

Matsuya serves excellent sushi and Japanese fare, including such knock-out starters as deep-fried chicken wings and whitefish with smelt roe. Although many imitators have opened nearby, Mia Francesca remains the best place in the neighborhood for sophisticated but simple Northern Italian fare. You could survive solely on the flaky, freshly baked cinnamon rolls that accompany every meal at the hallowed Swedish diner Ann Sather, which has several gay-popular locations.

Those seeking healthy food should head for the Chicago Diner, which specializes in creative vegan and vegetarian fare and serves delicious baked goods. An attractive little Thai restaurant where the rice and noodle dishes are delicious and cheap, Joy’s Noodles serves a terrific ginger chicken with a fragrant bean sauce. If you’re a java junkie, keep in mind that the cozy Lakeview outpost of the Caribou Coffee chain is known locally as “Cariboy” and “Queeribou” – that should tell you all you need to know about the crowd.

Boystown is the heart of the city’s gay-male nightlife scene. The yuppie bar Roscoe’s is practically a Chicago institution, fun for dancing and cruising any night of the week. A guy guzzling Bud longnecks and another sipping cosmos can feel right at home together at Cocktail, an intimate storefront bar where friends often meet up before heading out to larger clubs. Chicago’s classic stand-and-model video bar, SideTrack has plenty of rooms for mingling. Hydrate is one of the hippest gay bars in town, great for after-work cocktails or late-night dancing and cruising.

A swank, smoke-free lounge known for its colorful cocktails and slick crowd, Minibar opened somewhat recently and has become a favorite after-work spot. A circuit-boy favorite on weekends, Circuit pulses with a feverish late-night dance crowd even at midweek, when Latin nights are a hit. The stylish Berlin disco draws a decidedly funkier and more alternative crowd than most of the preppy haunts in Lakeview. Nearby Spin is an eclectic gay club with an all-ages crowd and fun dance music. Charlie’s brings in fans of country-western music, while the Gentry on Halsted is a Boystown branch of downtown’s popular piano bar, favored for happy hour and later for live cabaret. Leather-and-Levi’s types cruise the Cell Block. Steamworks Chicago is a popular, clean, well-run sauna – it’s one of the nicest such facilities in the country.

You can continue your clubbing in funky Andersonville, which is the heart of the city’s lesbian scene but also home to a few men’s (mostly hard-core) leather bars, such as the Chicago Eagle, which is attached to a bathhouse and decorated like a motorcycle garage.

Women and their friends flock to Star Gaze, the neighborhood’s top lesbian club, which serves dinner and also has DJs on weekends, lesbian comedy and live-music nights, and a convivial beer garden. Atmosphere is a lively dance bar and lounge with a mixed gay male and lesbian crowd. And Andersonville is also home to a branch of the gay-oriented franchise, Hamburger Mary’s, a dapper two-level space that’s popular both as a gay bar and a fine place to eat. Stop by on Wednesdays nights for “Mary-Oke” karaoke fun, perhaps after feasting on a Barbra-Q-Bacon cheeseburger with cheddar, Jack cheese, and a tangy-smoky sauce.

One of the most talked-about new eateries in the area, Anteprima turns out superb modern Italian fare and has a warm dining room with pressed-tin ceilings and a shaded patio in back. Don’t pass up the grilled quail marinated in honey with balsamic vinegar and pancetta. A lively and atmospheric bistro with a decidedly queer following, Tomboy serves tempting fare like pan-seared duck with crimini mushrooms and a port glaze. T’s is a friendly, gay-popular restaurant and bar – it’s a favorite lesbian date spot, known for healthful American food.

Taste of Heaven Bakery is a great pick for delectable breakfasts and lunches, plus fresh-baked snacks throughout the day – the fried-egg sandwiches and peaches-and-cream French toast are favorites in the morning. Another wonderful spot to satisfy your sugar fix is Sweet Occasions, which serves some of the thickest and richest ice cream in the city, plus fantastic cupcakes, cherry cobbler, and homemade fudge. It’s hard not to love this old-fashioned parlor with ice-cream sundaes named for the seven deadly sins. The “Lust” (a chipotle brownie topped with cinnamon ice cream, hot fudge, whipped cream, and red hots) may leave you lusting for another trip to these two charming Chicago neighborhoods.

Related: Chicago

9 Things to Do in Philadelphia

Andrew Collins
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9 Things to Do in Philadelphia

The “City of Brotherly Love” makes is ideal for a summertime visit

No city in the United States played a more critical role in the nation’s founding than Philadelphia, and this progressive metropolis of about 1.5 million people has also been a pioneer in gay and lesbian rights. The Philadelphia Lesbian and Gay Task Force, formed in 1978, guided passage of the 1982 Philadelphia Fair Practices Act, one of the country’s earliest gay civil rights measures, and countless other gay-positive laws and policies have been passed or implemented since then. Additionally, the city’s office of tourism was one of the first to enthusiastically court gay and lesbian visitors. But apart from a warm welcome, what else about the “City of Brotherly Love” makes it ideal for a summertime visit?

Here’s a list of just a few notable things to see or do, chronicled in no particular order, that make Philadelphia so appealing:

1. Rittenhouse Square Park
City-planning guru Jane Jacobs called this tiny patch of paradise the most successful urban park in the United States; indeed, Rittenhouse Square is picturesque, socially diverse, highly safe, and largely unsullied by post-World War II architecture. Off the Square’s southeast corner is the prestigious Curtis Institute of Music, where Samuel Barber, Leonard Bernstein, and Ned Rorem studied, as well as the Philadelphia Art Alliance, which presents outstanding exhibits and art shows.

The square is also the site of the gay-friendly Rittenhouse Hotel, a sumptuous 98-room property that hosted the cast of the movie Philadelphia during filming. Rooms here are downright cavernous, averaging more than 500 square feet, and all have large windows framing the park or the city’s dramatic skyline. A short walk from the square, romantic Astral Plane has been a favorite gay-date restaurant since it opened in 1973 (it’s also drawn such fab celebs as Bette Midler, Liza Minnelli, Barry Manilow, and Tommy Tune). From the eclectic menu you might choose slow-roasted pork shank with asiago potatoes, or grilled scallops with lemongrass-and-ginger butter. It’s the perfect spot for a special dinner.

2. Clubbing in the Gayborhood
The city’s compact gay district, nicknamed the Gayborhood, contains the bulk of the Philadelphia’s gay bars as well as quite a few gay-popular shops, restaurants, and hotels. It’s right in the center of downtown, about as convenient to attractions, transportation, and entertainment as any gay neighborhood in America. Highlights include the city’s premier lesbian club, Sisters, a three-floor establishment with a restaurant and disco, and long-running Woody’s, a youthful video bar that pulls in a mostly male, somewhat cruisy, stand-and-model crowd. The ultra-swank Bump Lounge offers a more cosmopolitan ambience and is a great place to chat with friends, sip martinis, and dine on fine contemporary cuisine. Serious revelers head to Pure, the city’s top gay warehouse disco. Tavern on Camac is a charming gay piano bar, with a cozy restaurant in the basement. Other friendly options in the neighborhood include Uncles, popular with players on Philly’s lesbian and gay softball teams; 12th Air Command, a cavernous cruise bar with fun drag shows and dance parties; and the Venture Inn, the oldest gay bar in town, set in a historic tavern.

There are plenty of places to stay nearby. Particularly charming and well-priced, the gay-owned Alexander Inn is a fine boutique hotel right in the center of the action. The 48 rooms have a contemporary look with sleek furnishings and muted tones – other bonuses include satellite TV, Wi-Fi, and Continental breakfast buffet. Practically across from Woody’s, the Holiday Inn Express Midtown has well-kept rooms and reasonable prices. Another excellent choice that’s just steps from gay nightlife is the upscale Doubletree Philadelphia, a handsome, contemporary high-rise whose rooms afford superb city views. The hotel is a block away from the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, a magnificent 5-year-old space designed by seminal architect Rafael Vinoly.

3. Brunch at the White Dog
There’s nothing more relaxing on a sunny weekend morning or afternoon than enjoying brunch at a lively restaurant with great food and, ideally, some outside seating. Near the campus of the University of Pennsylvania, the gay-popular White Dog Cafe fits the bill perfectly. This bric-a-brac-filled eatery set in three adjacent Victorian town houses serves such delicious brunch fare as lemon-mascarpone pancakes with raspberry-maple syrup, and black-pepper-seared organic beef salad with crumbled blue cheese and balsamic vinaigrette. Also keep in mind that Astral Plane restaurant, mentioned above, serves a terrific brunch on Sundays.

4. Cheesesteaks at Geno’s or Pat’s
It may sound a bit cliched to search out a cheesesteak in this city that’s famous for them. But you’re here – and you may as well have a bite of Philadelphia’s quintessential treat. Many connoisseurs favor two neighboring joints a bit south of downtown, Geno’s and Pat’s (of course, plenty of ardent critics deride these two places as tourist traps and prefer other holes-in-the-wall around town). Pat’s is said to have invented this delicacy in 1930 – the restaurant serves ’em slathered with Cheez Whiz and fried onions, and the steak is finely chopped. Across the street at Geno’s, the steaks are not shredded, and instead of Cheez Whiz, they come topped with provolone. Which one is better? You be the judge.

5. The Philadelphia Museum of Art
One of the nation’s most esteemed art institutions, the Philadelphia Museum of Art sits within a dramatic Greek Revival building amid 10 landscaped acres. Standouts in the permanent collection include contemporary masterpieces by Picasso, Braque, and Matisse as well as works by a number of post-World War II artists. The outstanding Marcel Duchamp collection includes renditions of his Nude Descending a Staircase (The “nude,” people often overlook, is male). Check out the fine collection of photos and paintings by gay artist Thomas Eakins of young, virile men crewing and boating on the nearby Schuylkill River. There’s also an excellent display on Shaker furniture.

And that’s just scratching the surface. The museum is adjacent to lushly landscaped Fairmount Park, which straddles the Schuylkill River and comprises nearly 9,000 acres of picturesque gardens, walkways, and biking and bridle paths, plus about a dozen historic (mostly Colonial) mansions, which are open to the public.

6. Reading Terminal Market
For a century, the more than 80 stalls at the cavernous Reading Terminal Market have sold tantalizing, market-fresh foods, ranging from local produce to international dishes from around the world. There are too many great dining options to mention, but try not to miss the regional Mexican fare at 12th Street Cantina, the deli items at Salumeria, Amish treats at Beiler’s Bakery, ice cream at Bassetts, the Pennsylvania Dutch breakfasts at Dutch Eating Place, Italian hoagies at Carmen’s, and heavenly mac-and-cheese at Delilah’s. But wherever you end up eating, you won’t go wrong – around every corner you’ll see, smell, and have the chance to taste delicious food.

Related: A Gay Traveler’s Guide to Amsterdam

7. Independence National Historic Park
Even if you’re not a big history buff, you can’t visit Philadelphia and not soak up at least a whiff or two of the city’s amazingly rich heritage. The Old City neighborhood contains the bulk of the pre-1800s attractions, most them centered around Independence National Historical Park, which celebrates the very birth of our nation. Most famous is the Liberty Bell Pavilion, site of America’s beloved and cracked 2,000-pound bell. Although commonly thought to have played a significant role in Colonial history, the Liberty Bell actually rose to prominence during the 1830s as a symbol of the movement to abolish slavery.

Nearby Independence Hall is where the Second Continental Congress met in 1775, the Declaration of Independence was adopted in 1776, the Articles of Confederation were signed in 1778, and the Constitution was adopted in 1787. It was also the site of the city’s first major civil rights demonstrations (which included the concerns of lesbians and gays). The list of important sights within the park goes on and on – you could easily spend a full day here.

8. Giovanni’s Room
In an age when independent bookstores are struggling to keep their doors open, this wonderful LGBT bookstore that’s been going strong since 1973 is a true marvel. The homey two-floor shop on the edge of the Gayborhood has hundreds of queer titles plus a wealth of feminist works. There are several community bulletin boards, a wide range of periodicals, and a handful of skin mags, too. The staff is extremely helpful and has a real knack for finding out-of-print, import, or hard-to-find titles.

9. Coffee Klatch
Arguably the gayest java joint in town, Village Coffee House anchors the Gayborhood, offering caffeine addicts a cozy interior space as well as a charming enclosed patio that overlooks a neighborhood garden. Here you can sip specialty drinks (made with Fair Trade coffee beans), ogle cute patrons, and nosh on cookies, cheesecake, and tasty sandwiches.

A short walk away, the gay-friendly cafe More Than Just Ice Cream has been a fixture in the ‘hood for years, serving up what some insist is the best apple pie in world (sorry, Mom…). As the name suggests, you can also order ice cream (and delicious sundaes, specifically), but there are also fresh sandwiches, soul-warming soups, and plenty of coffee and tea drinks. It’s the best place in town to while away a rainy Sunday afternoon.

Related: Philly Escapes: New Hope, the Brandywine Valley, and Winterthur

Albuquerque’s Gay Scene

Andrew Collins
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Albuquerque’s Gay Scene

Recently revitalized Albuquerque is home to New Mexico’s only gay bars

New Mexico’s largest city, set dramatically at the base of the soaring Sandia Mountains, makes a great – and affordable – base for exploring the rest of the Land of Enchantment. Albuquerque lies just 60 miles south of Santa Fe and within an afternoon’s drive of countless Indian pueblos, beautiful hiking and biking spots, and challenging ski areas. The “Duke City” (named for the city’s founder, the Duke of Alburquerque – the first “r” was later dropped) enjoys a sunny, mild climate, and it’s home to New Mexico’s only gay bars as well as a handful of gay-owned B&Bs and restaurants.

Albuquerque’s once dull downtown has undergone an ambitious revitalization in recent years, with loads of new shops, restaurants, and bars along or near the main drag, Central Avenue between 2nd and 8th streets, and also along parallel Gold Avenue. From here, it’s a five-minute drive to historic Old Town, which was laid out in 1706 and contains Albuquerque’s earliest building, the San Felipe de Neri Church, which fronts the serene, tree-shaded Plaza. The wares for sale at the more than 200 crafts and art galleries and boutiques in the area run the gamut from fine to kitschy, and a few very good restaurants are nearby. For an offbeat experience, step inside the small but venomous American International Rattlesnake Museum, which contains the world’s largest assemblage of live rattlers.

Within a short stroll of Old Town you’ll find a handful of the city’s most prominent attractions, including the recently expanded Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, which houses an astounding collection of Spanish Colonial artifacts, plus traditional and contemporary regional art. Exhibits on geology, volcanoes, and dinosaurs await you across the street at the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science. Also check out the Albuquerque Aquarium, Rio Grande Zoo, and Rio Grande Botanic Garden. It’s just a short drive from Old Town to the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center as well as the National Hispanic Cultural Center of New Mexico, both of which have exhibits, cafes, and performances related to their respective cultures.

Much of Albuquerque’s gay scene is focused in the retro-hip Nob Hill neighborhood, a short drive east of downtown along Historic Route 66 (Central Avenue), which glows with the neon signs of coffeehouses, bars, greasy-spoon diners, galleries, and boutiques selling everything from cool home-furnishings to campy gifts. Central Avenue fringes the southern edge of the University of New Mexico (UNM), whose noteworthy attractions include the Maxwell Museum of Anthropology and the University Art Museum.

The city sprawls a bit, and you need a car to venture out to some of the worthwhile outlying attractions. On the west side of town, visit Petroglyph National Monument to view some 25,000 rock drawings inscribed as far back as a thousand years ago along the 17-mile-long West Mesa escarpment. Drive east across town into the city’s lofty foothills for a chance to ride the Sandia Peak Aerial Tramway to the crest of the 10,600-foot Sandia Mountains. The 2.7-mile ride is the longest aerial tramway in the world. At the top are observation decks, hiking trails, a visitor’s center, and the High Finance Restaurant.

On the north side of Albuquerque, you’ll find the glamorous Sandia Casino resort, which in addition to extensive gaming areas contains one of the city’s best restaurants (Bien Shur, on the resort’s rooftop), a luxury hotel and spa, and a golf course of considerable acclaim.

The casino is close to Balloon Fiesta Park, home to New Mexico’s most famous festival, the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. This colorful hot-air balloon gathering – the world’s largest – takes place the first two weeks in October. At any time of year you can visit the park’s Anderson-Abruzzo International Balloon Museum. There are also a number of outfitters throughout Albuquerque offering hot-air balloon rides year-round; one of the most reliable is Rainbow Ryders.

Albuquerque’s already very good dining scene has improved dramatically just in the past few years. In the downtown area, don’t miss gay-popular Artichoke Cafe for first-rate Continental cooking in a romantic yet casual ambience. Thai Crystal is one of the city’s top Asian restaurants, while the cozy Gold Street Caffe serves up some of the best breakfasts around, plus light lunch and dinner fare, designer coffees, and delicious desserts. When in Old Town, book a table at elegant Ambrozia Cafe & Wine Bar, known for its quirky and inventive dishes, such as duck meatloaf with truffled cream corn, and lobster corn dogs with chipotle ketchup.

In Nob Hill, the swanky Zinc Wine Bar and Bistro serves a memorable Sunday jazz brunch and terrific French-inspired dinner fare – try the crispy duck-confit egg rolls or mango creme brulee. Next door, Crazy Fish serves tasty proof that it’s possible to find super-fresh and creatively rendered sushi right in the heart of the desert.

Talented chef Jennifer James is one of the leading new culinary stars of the Southwest, and you can sample her deftly prepared food at Graze, which specializes in affordable tapas-style small plates (she also owns the more formal Restaurant Jennifer James, a few miles north). Across the street, the upscale Gruet Steak House is run by the city’s acclaimed Gruet Winery, which produces some of the nation’s most respected champagne-style sparkling wines as well as commendable pinot noirs and chardonnays. Pre-clubbing gays and straights mix it up at sophisticated Martini Grille, which is lauded as much for its tasty American fare as for the fancy drinks served up in the schnazzy cocktail bar.

Hang out among UNM students and other local hipsters at Il Vicino, which serves out-of-this-world wood-fired pizzas and filling calzones, plus a nice array of leafy dinner-size salads. Try El Patio for some of the most authentic (and fiery) New Mexican cooking in town – be sure to sit on the tree-shaded patio. The no-frills Frontier Restaurant is a 24/7 institution famed for its breakfast burritos and heavenly cinnamon buns – it’s a real scene after the clubs close. Another must-do in Albuquerque is coffee and dessert at Flying Star, a bakery, restaurant, coffeehouse, and wine bar all rolled into one, with five locations around town, the gayest and coolest in Nob Hill and downtown.

Among Albuquerque’s six gay nightspots, Pulse draws the youngest and wildest bunch for cruising and dancing on the festive patio and compact but fierce dance floor. Fans of line-dancing and two-stepping head to sprawling Sidewinders Ranch, which is owned by the same folks as Sidewinders in Palm Springs. Low-keyed Exhale (formerly Renea’s) is the only lesbian bar in the state, although it pulls in plenty of guys, too. The expansive Albuquerque Mining Co. caters to a diverse crowd with its several bars, small dance area, and full volleyball court. The Albuquerque Social Club, a garden-variety video bar across the street from Pulse, attracts a fairly local following; guests are permitted in this private club but must purchase a “membership” (it’s good for one year). The parking lot at Foxes Lounge brims with beat-up pickup trucks, giving hints of the rugged, bearish, and horny guys inside. Exotic dancers are the main entertainment.

Related: Gay Palm Springs – An Iconic Desert Oasis

Although Albuquerque’s lodging landscape is dominated by generic chain hotels, you’ll find some distinctive historic properties and art-filled B&Bs, too. Among the latter, the beautifully restored Mauger Estate B&B sits within easy walking distance of downtown and Old Town. This gay-owned 1897 Queen Anne Victorian has an ornate redbrick exterior, period antiques, wallpapers, and fabrics.

Among larger mainstream properties, the historic Hotel Andaluz is the city’s true grand dame, opened in 1939 by Conrad Hilton (who honeymooned here with Zsa Zsa Gabor). It’s a stunning 10-story hotel in the heart of downtown. A few blocks west, the art deco Hotel Blue has simple but affordable rooms and a great location, making it one of the city’s best bargains.

Of the city’s chain properties, the 17-story Albuquerque Marriott hotel is a commendable, upscale choice with great views of the mountains. It’s close to two shopping malls and a short drive from gay nightlife. And a 20-minute drive north of Albuquerque in the town of Bernalillo, the posh Hyatt Regency Tamaya offers the most lavish accommodations in the region. Amenities at this 500-acre resort on the Santa Ana Pueblo include a world-class spa, horseback riding, tennis, golf, superb restaurants, and casino gaming. If you’re looking for sumptuous Palm Springs-style glamour in the laid-back Duke City, look no further than this stunning resort, the perfect place to celebrate an ultra-romantic Southwest getaway.

Anchorage: The Great Outdoors

Andrew Collins
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Anchorage: The Great Outdoors

Heart of Alaska’s relatively nascent but increasingly visible gay scene

Although it’s a bit less than a century old, Anchorage has developed into Alaska’s largest city, with a population of about 260,000. It’s also an excellent jumping-off point for countless adventures into the surrounding wilderness, from sea kayaking in Prince William Sound to hiking at Denali National Park to skiing at Alyeska Prince Resort in nearby Girdwood. But don’t overlook the city itself, a lively cultural hub with great shopping and dining and immediate access to the great outdoors. It’s also the heart of the state’s relatively nascent but increasingly visible gay scene.

Summer is the most popular time to come, when Anchorage abounds with flowers in private and public gardens as well as in window boxes and hanging baskets on porches. The sun rises around 4:30 in the morning and doesn’t set again until almost midnight, allowing for ample time each day to see the sights. But snow-sports fans and bargain-seekers might want to consider a winter visit, when hotel rates drop precipitously along with temperatures (expect January highs of about 20 to 25 degrees, versus 60- to 65-degree highs in July).

Related: Exploring Whistler

Anchorage won’t likely dazzle you – downtown was largely destroyed during a massive 1964 earthquake, and much of the reconstruction leaves a lot to be desired aesthetically. But it’s nonetheless a culturally rich city that’s home to the acclaimed Alaska Center for the Performing Arts (containing four different theaters), plus the Anchorage Symphony Orchestra, Anchorage Opera, and Alaska Chamber Singers.

The Anchorage Museum of History and Art is a world-class facility with an extensive trove of art and artifacts that trace the history of the region right up through the modern age. And at the Alaska Native Heritage Center, you can learn about the state’s myriad indigenous cultures through exhibits, classes and seminars, and performances.

Anchorage has long drawn outdoorsy types, as there are plenty of ways to get your blood pounding within city limits, and you’re also within driving distance of many great destinations for recreation and nature-watching. You can hike miles of trails at Chugach State Park, which fringes the city and extends for some 60 miles into the wilderness to the south, offering climbs to numerous peaks with elevations as high as 8,000 feet. Another great venue is Eagle River Nature Center, which offers hikes, naturalist programs, and bird-watching outings among many other activities that showcase the region’s abundant flora and fauna. And that’s just scratching the surface – don’t overlook the Alaska Zoo (an excellent place to see black bears up close) and the Alaska Botanical Gardens.

From a culinary standpoint, Anchorage has truly blossomed of late. There are certain foods that appear routinely on area menus, particularly reindeer (often in the form of sausage), elk, and other area game along with plenty of local seafood, from wild salmon to raw oysters to fresh berries. Kincaid Grill has been a pioneer in creative regional dining, as chef Al Levinsohn is constantly coming up with exciting new takes on Alaskan cuisine, from Kodiak scallops served with an Asian ponzu sauce and stir-fried veggies to roasted halibut Nicoise with olive tapenade. Another top choice is Sack’s, a slick contemporary dining room filled with modern art and serving such innovative creations as pan-seared New Zealand rack of lamb with blueberry-port demiglace. Grab a table along the sidewalk in good weather.

You’ll find sophisticated contemporary cuisine at Mick’s at the Inlet, including a knockout elk chop with goat cheese brioche pudding, Bearnaise sauce, and a berry relish, and roasted skatefish wing with blood oranges, fennel, chives, and olive oil. Drop by Cafe Savannah, a cool little tapas restaurant and wine bar with authentic Spanish cooking, for the likes of Portobello mushrooms stuffed with chorizo and Manchego cheese, and calamari with lemon-garlic aioli.

For a light meal and great people-watching and mingling, check out Glacier Brewhouse, which is known as much for its delicious house-brewed oatmeal stout and red-currant lambic beer as for tasty comfort food, such as seared ahi tuna and Thai chicken pizza. Gay-friendly Sassafras Coffeehouse is a fine spot for a light meal, coffee, and free wireless Internet – it’s right across the street from Nordstrom’s, by downtown’s 5th Avenue Mall. Try the turkey-bacon-avocado wrap.

Also a block from the mall, Cyrano’s Theatre Company comprises a performance space, arty bookstore, and petit cafe (called Twig’s) where you can grab a chicken-pecan salad or a cup of seafood chowder. The theater produces well-acted plays throughout the year and has a strong gay following. The queer nightlife scene is limited to a pair of bars on the edge of downtown, the lively and highly enjoyable Mad Myrna’s – which has campy cabaret shows, a dance floor, and a totally diverse following – and the somewhat more male-oriented and cruisy Raven, which is just around the corner.

There are several accommodations here that actively market to gay visitor. Just on the edge of downtown, the gay-owned Wildflower Inn contains three guest rooms with sophisticated but comfy furnishings, including a beautiful Mission-style bed in one and TV/VCRs in all of them (plus Wi-Fi throughout the house). It’s a great choice if you want to be within walking distance of museums, restaurants, and nightlife.

Another highly popular gay-owned property downtown is the Copper Whale Inn, an urbane late-1930s house (a rare survivor of the ’64 quake) with 15 rooms, most of them affording panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains and Cook Inlet. Of larger mainstream properties, one of the most luxurious is the Marriott Anchorage Downtown. This airy, contemporary high-rise offers dramatic views of the distant wilderness but also affords easy access to local sights and restaurants.

You can make a number of excellent day trips or short overnights from Anchorage. One of the best full-service resorts in Alaska is the luxurious Alyeska Resort, in the small village of Girdwood, a 45-minute drive south of the city. In winter, it’s the state’s top venue for downhill and cross-country skiing, snowboarding, snowmobiling, snow-tubing, and sledding. You can also take the aerial tram up to Mt. Alyeska, which has a restaurant at the top. In summer, you can book a tandem paragliding ride off the top of the mountain.

Another option is the two-and-a-half-hour drive to Seward, a slightly gritty old fishing town on the Kenai Peninsula. It’s gradually developed into a popular cruise port and leisure destination, thanks to its proximity to nature and also the Alaska Sealife Center, a marine-life research facility where visitors can observe the habitats of 2,000-pound Stellar sea lions, diving puffins, and dancing King crabs, among other creatures native to this region.

Just outside of Seward, you can visit Exit Glacier – in fact, you can practically drive your car right up to the edge, as it’s the most accessible glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park, which encompasses more than 900 square miles. From the parking area it’s a flat 15-minute hike to the foot of the glacier, where you can get some great up-close photographs of this hulking, slowly retreating mass of ice.

Related: Great National Park Vacations

Downtown Seward has a handful of restaurants and souvenir shops, mostly along 3rd and 4th avenues, and the community also has plenty of tour operators offering kayaking trips, flightseeing excursions, and sailing adventures.

Perhaps the most dramatic way to get around the region, especially if you’re a fan of vintage trains, is to book one of the popular sightseeing runs on the Alaska Railroad. There are extensive tours lasting from two to 10 days through the Denali National Park’s backcountry and up into the Arctic Circle, as well as easy day trips that depart Anchorage and take you through rugged Chugach Forest, past soaring glaciers and across wildflower-strewn meadows. Many of these trains have glass-dome roofs, allowing incredible photo ops. These colorful jaunts narrated by experienced naturalists offer the perfect chance to get a sense of America’s richest tract of scenic wilderness, the Alaskan countryside.

Eat and Play in Provincetown

Andrew Collins
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Eat and Play in Provincetown

Where to mingle with friends and snuggle up in bed for the night

When Massachusetts became the first state in the Union to legalize same-sex marriages, residents of America’s oldest and perhaps most famous gay vacation retreat, Provincetown, did notice the effects on their community.

But places like the Universalist Meeting House of Provincetown, long a friend to the gay community, had been performing same-sex commitment ceremonies for eons and simply shifted gears to perform same-sex marriages.

However, Provincetown already hummed with activity during the summer season, when it’s virtually impossible to find properties that can host entire wedding parties. And many guest houses are reluctant to court gay weddings at all, because they don’t have the capacity or common areas suitable for large events.

Related: Gay Marriage: From Forbidden Fruit to Law of the Land

So Provincetown’s summer rituals of schmoozing at tea dances, sunbathing at Herring Cove Beach, and reveling into the wee hours at Atlantic House and the Crown & Anchor continue as they have for years. Only now, you’ll also see from a few to a few dozen same-sex newlyweds and their well-wishers joining in cheerfully with the rest of the colorful P-town mix.

Provincetown
Provincetown

Whether or not your plans to visit P-town revolve around a trip to the altar, here are just a few recommendations for where to sample delicious food, mingle with friends, and snuggle up in bed for the night:

One of the hottest meal tickets in Provincetown is Chester, a wonderful purveyor of artfully understated contemporary fare like seared local diver scallops with lemon-pepper glaze and cauliflower flan. The wine list is exceptional, and the staff gregarious yet highly professional. Set in a former captain’s house (circa 1750), the romantic Martin House presents some of the most innovative cuisine around. Here you might sample butter-poached lobster medallions with an onion baguette, braised leeks and fennel, and truffle oil. The Mews offers great live entertainment as well as tasty food.

The pubby cafe upstairs has lighter fare (burgers, salads, etc.), the downstairs dining room more formal cuisine. A relative newcomer just down the street from The Mews, Jackson’s at the Flagship sits on stilts over the water and presents artful regional American chow, including rare seared tuna over a mound of baby corn, roasted tomato, and edamames.

In an intimate second-floor space with stunning harbor views, Ross’s Grill earns kudos for its well-chosen wine list, tantalizing raw bar, and inventive American cuisine. The sophisticated Commons Bistro, with a bay window overlooking the main drag, Commercial Street, offers creative contemporary fare, such as griddled hanger steak with pommes frites and green-peppercorn sauce, plus excellent brick-oven pizzas. For some of the most authentic Mexican food in New England, head to Lorraine’s. Crab enchiladas and roasted duck are a couple of the stellar dishes here. Right on the water in the East End, Fanizzi’s offers up fresh, bountiful dinner salads, seafood pastas, and other casual but well-executed meals (at reasonable prices) – it’s a bit of a sleeper, but worth checking out.

For lighter noshing, try Lagniappe, a favorite lunch spot serving up tasty Cajun-inspired fare, or casual Clem & Ursie’s, where you can sample a mean Portuguese squid stew or hot lobster roll. Spiritus Pizza has some of the best people-watching, especially late at night in that golden hour between bar closing and Spiritus’ closing (1 a.m.-2 a.m.). And be sure to stop by the Provincetown Portuguese Bakery to sample the delicious meat pies, pastries, rolls, and breads.

When it comes time to trade in your knife and fork for a mug of beer or an icy cocktail, head for historic Atlantic House (aka A-House), which contains both a hopping gay bar and a disco. The other big player in town, noted for its pulsing Saturday-night circuit parties, is the Crown & Anchor, which also has a festive video lounge and a cruisy leather bar. The Gifford House hotel is home to Purgatory, a small, sexually charged basement dance club.

In the East End, check out the lesbian-oriented Vixen, an attractive bar and dance floor with live shows on many nights. All summer long, poseurs and party creatures mingle and cruise during the Boatslip’s legendary tea dances. The crowd usually moves on to the Pied Piper, which has a small but fun dance floor, off of which is one of the loveliest decks in town, a great spot to watch the sun sink over the bay.

Provincetown has more than 70 inns and guest houses with a gay following, most of them welcoming a mix of men and women, gay and straight (the exact breakdown of clientele typically varies throughout the year). Arguably the town’s premier accommodation, the superbly sumptuous 40-room Crowne Pointe commands a regal setting on a bluff in the center of town. Cushy in-room amenities abound – comfy Heavenly Bed mattresses, pima-cotton bathrobes, gas fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, high-speed Internet, and TVs with DVD players. The inn’s stunning Shui Spa is a top-notch facility with a professional yet low-keyed staff.

The Brass Key was the first Provincetown guest house to offer a level of service and amenities comparable to a world-class luxury hotel, and this splendid resort still excels in every category. The owners recently took over and completely refurbished Lands End Inn, an eccentric West Side property affording spectacular views of Cape Cod Bay. Tops among the 16 whimsical rooms are the tower suites with wraparound decks and domed ceilings – one has a decadent Moroccan decorative scheme.

The staff at hip and cozy Somerset House Inn have set the standard in Provincetown when it comes to hospitality – these guys go above and beyond the call to make their guests feel special, from picking them up at the ferry dock or airport in a shiny Land Rover to offering one the most impressive breakfast spreads and afternoon wine-and-cheese receptions in town. Somerset captures the chic ambience of an urbane boutique hotel, with its mod furnishings, Aveda bath amenities, high-speed wireless, and plush beds with 320-thread-count linens. A luxurious mansard-roof Victorian that’s been meticulously restored, Esther’s ranks among the top women-owned properties in town. There are just five guestrooms in this stately yellow house, with an excellent restaurant on the ground floor serving eclectic, globally inspired fare.

And that’s just the tip of the iceberg. You’ll find countless other great properties around town – the cheap and cheerful Heritage House, ideal if you don’t mind shared baths; the sumptuous Benchmark Inn & Central, a pair of neighboring Greek Revival beauties with sun-filled rooms; the friendly and moderately priced Ampersand, nestled in the quiet West End; and the old-world elegant Carpe Diem, a sophisticated yet quite social guest house with rooms named for famous poets and writers (from Rilke to Cocteau). The 20 beautiful rooms and apartments at Gabriel’s are named and themed after famous women, from Billie Holiday to Katharine Hepburn to Virginia Woolf; many units have fireplaces. And the Beaconlight has long ranked among the region’s most inviting properties. The building, part of which dates to the 1850s, is surrounded by lushly landscaped grounds. Inside, a piano is often heard from the living room, and an octagonal roof deck affords panoramic views of America’s classic gay summer resort – and nascent gay honeymoon retreat.

Related: Fire Island Versus Provincetown

Bear Week in Provincetown is naughty fun:-)

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